Engine failure

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johnl56

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I am after a favour if someone can take a picture of the Intake Manifold Support Bracket for me. it is No 17 in the picture, I need to know what it does and if anything attaches to it. Been so long and about to put the engine back into the car this week. There is nothing on the old motor that shows what attached to it.
Thanks in advance
John
 

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BarneyB

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G'Day John,
It's looking good!
I'll take a photo tomorrow for you for what is worth (mines a D40 YD25)...maybe that bracket is the same...

Any reason you're retaining the EGR system?

If you need a hand for a few hours I'm around tomorrow and Wednesday too.
 

johnl56

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Thanks for that. The EGR is blocked off anyway. No reason other than to keep it looking normal. Murphy's law comes into play if I remove it I will get pulled over and get fined. At least it will look normal. YD25 provides a plate to replace the EGR Passage. 19 in the picture. There is also a plate to block it off that I put on when I got the car.

As far as a hand goes. Mate thanks for that but I am covered, got the blokes in the business next door to help if I get a bit stuck. I am hoping to get it in today, once it's in maybe a day more and it will be done. Didn't do much yesterday crappy weather out here.
 

BarneyB

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I'm almost 100% certain these photos are useless to you... but I tried! 😄😄😄
As you know it's super congested under there. Was difficult to get the phone at a useful angle.

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johnl56

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I had a look at the D40 setup in the manual and it a different setup. No matter I will see what happens when the engine is in and I lay the harness back. it could be a support for that harness. Thanks anyway mate.
 

Erick

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Those white foam fruit boxes work well. Cut to size with a sharp knife. Squeeze it in and voila! Worked for me anyway.
 

johnl56

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Well motor is in, gear box mounted. What a PITA, I had a mate help yesterday to get the motor in on the gear box. Struggled for ages as it is hard to see if you are aligning correctly. After what seemed like hours clunk it went in, got a couple of bolts in and called it quits. Attacked it again today. I took the engine mounts off completely so I could get the gap between the fire wall and the box. One spanner came in very handy a 350mm ring spanner 14mm, just couldn't get to the top two bolts so used that to tighten them up. Torque to Harley torque specs. Tighten till it is loose!:sneaky: One 10mm nut on the lower exhaust heat shield I can't get to so two will have to do. If the weather holds tomorrow in with the front drive shaft and final drive assembly, finalize torquing the exhaust bolts then wiring and see how I feel. Hard work for me. So this week it will start hopefully.

As far as the foam goes yeah I might have a look at the polystyrene. I bit the bullet and ordered a new radiator, full alloy, the current one is manky, the fins in the front are damaged, it is full of grass and small bits ( previous owner kids used to take it bush. ) He got rid of it before they trashed it completely, that will be here this week. I intend to run 5w30 full synthetic oil in the motor and drop it after 1000ks, then new filter and further synthetic 5w30, and 10k intervals unless anyone has any better advice.

john
 

BarneyB

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You're on the home run now. Very impressive to turn the ute around in a pretty short time....and do it all yourself.

Old wisdom used to be that you used the cheapest nastiest oil you could find for running in a new donk (1000kms).....and then switched to the good stuff.

If you look at the temp. charts for oil weights (owners manual) 5w is overkill for our climate. Tassie is cold but we don't see -25 etc.
From memory 10w is rated down to 0 or -5 I think (off top of my melon).
And likewise, in the middle of Summer on a 30+ day towing a trailer, I'd rather have 40 weight in the motor than 30 weight. But I'm prolly splitting hairs....

Fingers crossed for a start later in the week!
 

BarneyB

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Oh by the way....
Who/where did you order the radiator?
I noticed some online mobs won't ship a radiator interstate due to damage concerns(?)
 

johnl56

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Well I bought the oil so I will use that. I have run 15w 40 once and I thought it made the motor noisy especially on start up. My thinking is 5 is thinner so would move through the motor faster on start up. Might change to 10 after the 10k service. but in the end I don't notice a lot of difference between the two.

The radiator I got from Fleabay. 2007-2019 3 Row AA5052 Radiator For Navara D22 2.5L YD25DDTi Turbo Diesel AT/MT | eBay. Coming from Melbourne.

And yep it has been a job. I was talking to my wife yesterday and she asked if I would so this again and no, I wouldn't do this again. To old, to sore after yesterday so a bit thankful for the shit weather this week. All I have left underneath is the front drive assembly, starter motor, Steering pump and the new crank position sensor that I forgot to take out (after reading it in the idiots guide). So not rushing it. I will go around and check things again after I think I have finished just to be sure. Old timers disease

I am putting the Penrite blue coolant in the motor as well. 5L concentrated from Autobarn $70 (they forgot to put the updated $75 price tag on). It had green in it when I dumped it. That didn't look all that bad, although there was a lot of white powdery residue once it dried out, that wiped off easily enough. On taking things apart nothing was corroded as far as I could see. So new radiator as well. Shit New engine, new clutch, water pump, radiator luckily I am retired otherwise I wouldn't be able to afford it.

And fingers crossed yes I am hoping it starts, got dual batteries so I think I should have enough power. As someone said I will be cranking quite a few times to get fuel though as well. I will crack the inlet to the fuel rail when priming the system to get most of the air out, then just from the lines to the injectors.
 

johnl56

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On the oil again I wonder if it is worth putting in running in oil first? I don't know. YD25 warranty says synthetic oil only or warranty void. So might stay with that.
 

BarneyB

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On the oil again I wonder if it is worth putting in running in oil first? I don't know. YD25 warranty says synthetic oil only or warranty void. So might stay with that.
Yeah I don't think it will matter much either way. 5w30 is quite "thin" so it should allow some initial wear-in to occur (?) ....good wear-in that is!
....and keeping the rebuild warranty is more important than any difference in oils.

I know from experience that the amount of time, effort, sweat, blood & money on something like this is far more than a few pages we see on the forum. I always appreciate it when someone keeps the thread updated right through (y)
 

johnl56

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yep I will stay with the 5w. I will update in a couple of days as to how things are going. it's funny you read the manual and think yeah couple of hours to take the engine out. garbage. I still remember taking a 186 out of a HK premier Fuel lines a couple of electrical lines and then the transmission housing bolts, mounts and Walla, and a lot more room to boot.
 

BarneyB

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yep I will stay with the 5w. I will update in a couple of days as to how things are going. it's funny you read the manual and think yeah couple of hours to take the engine out. garbage. I still remember taking a 186 out of a HK premier Fuel lines a couple of electrical lines and then the transmission housing bolts, mounts and Walla, and a lot more room to boot.

Yeah I had a 1970 Datsun 1600 for over 20 years. It went through a few different configurations.
'Twas much easier to work on than a modern diesel 4x4!
 

johnl56

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Does anyone know the torque for the front final drive mount bolts. The bolts indicated by the arrow in the 2 pic. And the front suspension member mounting bolts 2 either end in the first picture.

The D40 Thai built manual has them listed as per the pic.

Would it be safe to use that torque setting for the D40.
 

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