As I am now towing a caravan I wonder if a remap of the ECU would benefit me. Border Automotive Engineering and Tuning | Remapped ECU Specialists D22 Remap and exchange. Anyone had one of these and are they worth the effort.
ECU remap exchange
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My remap was from East Coast Performance and Tuning. As far as effort goes, absolutely none required, only financial. And even that is cheaper and better than the old chip installs.
BAET have a good description of what their tunes are capable of and the capability of the ZD30 drivetrain
The improvement is enough to make you shelve any plans to upgrade for a while, as long as your A/C and power windows are working and you are happy with a manual
It is good
BAET have a good description of what their tunes are capable of and the capability of the ZD30 drivetrain
The improvement is enough to make you shelve any plans to upgrade for a while, as long as your A/C and power windows are working and you are happy with a manual
It is good
Thanks for that. mine is the YD25 no the ZD30 but much of a muchness as far as improvement goes.
Hey mate, I have one of these tuned ecu’s and can vouch for the difference! Had a 3” exhaust and they ask you to adjust boost to 20psi (under full load). They even included the return postage bag!
Pulls like a freight train compared to stock. Throttle response is also increased in the tune, so you don’t have to buy a controller.
I have since added a high flow turbo and log style manifold, already had a 3” exhaust and a throttle controller.
Pulls like a freight train compared to stock. Throttle response is also increased in the tune, so you don’t have to buy a controller.
I have since added a high flow turbo and log style manifold, already had a 3” exhaust and a throttle controller.
Absolutely it will, i am on stage 2 now from BAET and it likes night & day difference in power and torque. Even on stage 1 it made a huge difference.
I think he can also disable EGR if you haven't already blanked that off and make your glow plugs stay on longer. Mine is ZD30.
That was the first thing I did was block off the EGR, and when I got the motor YD25 sent a blanking plate for the EGR at the Valve mounting face to the intake manifold.
What's the stage 2 change? I have ordered a Boost Tee valve and boost gauge. The gauge will only be used to get the required boost pressure, then taken out. Where did you mount the Boost Tee valve?
Last edited:
VB69
Member
Hi guys,
I’ve got a D22 and am looking into a remap. I’m in NSW Penrith, don’t suppose you could recommend someone and what price range should I expect to pay.
Cheers.
Border Automotive Engineering and Tuning | Remapped ECU Specialists he has the prices listed on his website. about half the price of a dyno
Basically in the little vaccuum tube that feeds the MAP sensor or you could tee between the waste gate and turbo intake etc
Changes umm, cold air box/snorkel, front mount intercooler if you haven't already done so, pnuematic fuel cut defender, i also upgraded turbo to handle higher boost levels and boost controller obviously. To be honest could run stock turbo and stay on conservative side as long as you have your intercooler in place to catch any bits incase it flys apart lol
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Ok Have installed the ECU, and the Boost controller. I took it for a spin this morning and I don't know but I was getting more than 20psi with only a couple of clicks on the valve open. Am I doing something wrong, even with the valve closed I am still getting 15-16 PSI. The gauge I am using only goes up to 20psi and the needle goes past that with foot flat in 3rd gear in the required rev range. Other than this the car pulls fine. Nice response from the engine, and I don't drive the car that hard as well
what engine ?
15-16psi sounds normal for stock engine. 20 psi could be heaps depending on the tune. you don't want to push the turbo outside its working range.
you should really have an egt gauge fitted as exhaust temps is a critical factor.
boost controller, depends on what you have. ball and spring ones work best on diesels, the bleed type are better on petrol's.
15-16psi sounds normal for stock engine. 20 psi could be heaps depending on the tune. you don't want to push the turbo outside its working range.
you should really have an egt gauge fitted as exhaust temps is a critical factor.
boost controller, depends on what you have. ball and spring ones work best on diesels, the bleed type are better on petrol's.
D22 YD25. The Boost controller is the ball and spring type. I will look into fitting a EGT Guage fitted as well.
You should have it set lower, so that it only hits 20psi when under full load (towing uphill, etc). Mine usually wont go over the 18psi even when booting it around town, but 20 when under full load
Thanks for that I will sort it out.
Coming out of Launceston today going up the hill past the Big 4, I started to loose the back end, in 4th gear overtaking a truck. Shit, so turned the boost back another click it is now set on 3 clicks from closed. Admittedly the road was a bit wet from rain but the car has never lost traction in the rear and my tires are in good nick.
The car couldn't be making that much power just from an update to the ECU
The car couldn't be making that much power just from an update to the ECU
Does Tasmania have anti-hooning laws like Victoria? You better be careful!
Don't know
. But the wife was not happy when it happened. I have just went for a quick trip and it is a lot better, less aggressive in the delivery.
They reckon you should see a change from the factory 98kw at the engine, to around 90-95kw at the wheels! So yes it is quite a change.
Second gear wet road slides on the 32” geolandar X-AT’s is now normal if I’m not careful
Second gear wet road slides on the 32” geolandar X-AT’s is now normal if I’m not careful
