D40 Vacuum VNT on D22

[KallumG123]

So i have been researching into swapping out the factory d22 turbo and going to a high flow d40 vacuum vnt turbo. From what ive gathered the D40 manifolds bolt straight up to the d22 yd25 and i have to use something along the lines of a tillix valve to control boost. Wondering if theres anyone out there who has done the swap and know exactly what it takes to do after bolting everything on (what vacuum source, dump pipe, boost control, etc.)?

 

[Old.Tony]

I haven't done it myself, but I can tell you that the Tilix valve is a good approach. You won't be able to adjust the boost while driving, but you'll get decent boost levels. I've got mine adjusted for a peak boost of 21psi.

The exhaust-turbo-dump interface will be interesting. There are two types of D40 turbocharger - a 3-bolt and a 4-bolt. I don't know what the D22 has, but to my knowledge there's not a lot of difference in performance between the two turbocharger types, but one may suit your dump pipe better?

 

[KallumG123]

D22’s i believe are a 3 bolt dump. With the tillix valve, do you just take the vacuum source from the turbo to connect it and bypass the boost control solenoid? Considering the d22 is a standard wastegate turbo, could i just tee into a seperate vacuum source and send that to the new turbo possibly via the tillix valve?

 

[Old.Tony]

That sounds reasonable. The Tilix valve uses a vacuum source to control a valve that operates the vanes. This valve is a variable one (adjust the pressure applied to the spring inside by turning the valve body), so you could adjust it for varying boost levels. Once the pressure inside the manifold reaches the desired limit (you have to put a connector to the manifold just outside the turbocharger and run a vac line from this to the Tilix valve), the valve operates and backs off the vacuum from the actuator.

So in the end, you only need one vacuum hose from somewhere and you put the rest together from the valve's instructions. In those instructions, you'll see reference to the vacuum hose that comes across the top of the D40's engine - this is the vacuum source, the D40 vacuum pump is on the right hand side of the motor. The BCS is on the left hand side up the front (bolted to the intercooler hard pipe), the instructions will refer to that and tell you to disconnect this and that - don't worry, you only need that first vac hose and go from there.

 

[tweak'e]

D40 YD25 comes out in a few different power levels. i would use the turbo off one thats closest to the power you want to make.

 

[ericcs]

D40 YD25 comes out in a few different power levels. i would use the turbo off one thats closest to the power you want to make.

except for the latter 140kw engine. if i"m correct, they are electronically controlled instead of vacuum?

 

[tweak'e]

except for the latter 140kw engine. if i"m correct, they are electronically controlled instead of vacuum?

no idea, i'm not a D40 guy.
electronic could possibly be converted or get a electronic controller.

 

[Old.Tony]

The later (2013?) D40s were equipped with electronic actuators. In fact, there were a few issues with some of the early ones ... but as long as there's a vac pump to provide a vacuum source for the brake booster AND you used a vacuum-controlled turbo, you could still throw this on a D22.

I suppose you could put an electric vacuum pump in the engine bay and use that. It only needs to draw enough vacuum to pull the actuator up and hold it.

 

[dilmah]

I would save yourself the hassle of trying to get the Vac side of things to work and just run a positive pressure actuator. Diesel smart sell them fairly cheap and they come pre-set for a desired boost level, e.g. 20 or 25psi would be a good starting point. You just plumb them up like a regular waste gated turbo then get your nav retuned. I run this exact setup on mine and have no issues. I would also use the 4 bolt D40 turbo (Garrett GT2056V)

 

[KallumG123]

I would save yourself the hassle of trying to get the Vac side of things to work and just run a positive pressure actuator. Diesel smart sell them fairly cheap and they come pre-set for a desired boost level, e.g. 20 or 25psi would be a good starting point. You just plumb them up like a regular waste gated turbo then get your nav retuned. I run this exact setup on mine and have no issues. I would also use the 4 bolt D40 turbo (Garrett GT2056V)

They look pretty interesting actually, so does that then allow you to say run a boost tee to adjust boost level after that or are they pre-set?

 

[tweak'e]

I would save yourself the hassle of trying to get the Vac side of things to work and just run a positive pressure actuator. Diesel smart sell them fairly cheap and they come pre-set for a desired boost level, e.g. 20 or 25psi would be a good starting point. You just plumb them up like a regular waste gated turbo then get your nav retuned. I run this exact setup on mine and have no issues. I would also use the 4 bolt D40 turbo (Garrett GT2056V)

the last i heard of those things is they do not work well.
i suspect the issue is simply at low boost there is not enough pressure to move the vanes fast enough.
if i remember right someone was doing a combo version that used vacuum to provide "motive power" to move the vanes at low boost. but then you might as well just use vacuum all the time.

i do not see the point of a positive pressure setup. dealing with a variable pressure source as the motive power is always problematic. vacuum setup can work perfectly fine as its always available. all that needs doing is controlling it. if turbo needs a bit more motive power to move the vanes you can fit a larger vac unit.