D40 loss of power/limp mode.

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oldjoe

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Hi all,
Oldjoe from WA here for the first time.

Have read a lot of posts regarding the above issues and I have suffered this problem with my 2013/14 D40. First time was traced to the vacuum solenoid valve that operates the EGR valve. Simple remedy - carefully dismantled it (not designed to be dismantled), cleaned it out and re-assembled. Problem fixed. That was probably 25000k ago.

Now, have had one episode where I noticed the stop lights were activated (my ute has a canopy with high mounted LED stop light and pilot light that can be viewed in the rear vie3w mirror); and, no acceleration! Pulled over, left the engine running and went to the back of the vehicle to verify the stop lights were actually ON and yes they were. The issue ceased when I stopped the engine and re-started. The problem has not returned. I have never heard of this issue despite searching lots of blogs/forums. Vehicle has approx 125000ks now.

Any ideas out there?
 

oldjoe

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Oldjoe again. Have searched the Nissan Navara workshop manual for any electrical connection to the stop light circuit that may provide some logical explanation (or even an indication) as to why the stop lights could be powered under an engine fault condition; or, the reverse scenario - brake light influencing engine performance.
The brake stop light circuit appears (in the electronic version of the manual I have) to be directly wired via a fuse through the brake pedal switch. No CAN bus connection or any other intermediary wiring involved from what I see.
I do have a trailer electric brake controller wired to the trailer plug. The brake sense wire is taken from the RH brake light, not the brake pedal. This was done in accord with the brake controller OEM instructions as some vehicles have the brake light initiated via an ECM or such like device.
 

oldjoe

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Further info. Have tested the system with an OBDII to RS232 interpreter and no stored faults show up, No fault lights indicated during the brief period of the occurrence.
 

Old.Tony

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I'd open up the trailer plug on the back of the ute and make sure there's nothing shorting in there, and if your brake controller is anything like mine, it can be unplugged - do these separately of course! Just in case the controller has an internal problem.

It would also be an idea to check the earth point that the trailer plug uses. Stray or poor earth connections are a common source of (often unpredictable) annoyance.
 

oldjoe

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Yes, done that. Still going through some of the other 'improvements' I have installed looking for any bad connections or deterioration of separation. The trailer plug/trailer wiring and associated accessories are all 2 wire circuits without any earth returns (trailer wasn't connected at the time of the fault).

However, I do have a DC-DC charger onboard that charges a separate battery in the rear compartment and I am pretty sure that has an earth reference.

Thanks for the response and welcome. Appreciated.
 

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