D22 zd30 no start

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Good morning
I've had My hands dirty for a couple of weeks now
I drive a nissan hardbody 3l 16v 2005
D22 zd30.

I was driving bakkie. Parked it all good
When I returned about 3 hours later she Cranks but refuse to start

What was done already
I had 2 guys come and plug in obd for erros. And nothing shows up on scanner
Ask the second guy to check on scanner and disconnect the crank angle sensor and immediately picked up on the scan. So the to did interact

Removes the computer along with ignition and key and used a test set to eliminate nats. Same issue

Replaced water trap filter and diesel filter with original nissan filters and replaced clamps

When I use start up thrue intake she wil run on it until I stop spraying

Tried to run straight line and bypass filter and hand pump ( incase of leak)

Removed one of the injector lines just before the injector and get some diesel
Not sure how much presuse I need but never the less. Fuel is there

I had issues with water drip inside the cab due to heater pipe.

Is it possible that the scanners wil overlook the pump issue

Pierre Visser
 

tweak'e

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yes possibly.
those injection pumps are known to just completely die.
 

Horatius

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Yeah, it is possible, others on here will know what does/doesn't work. The best way of getting codes is probably to use the engine light method.

Using the theory that when diesels won't start they're lacking either fuel or air, and as you seem to have fuel.....Have you tried undoing the intake near the butterfly (bypassing filter, turbo) to see if it starts? If you can rule out obstruction this way, that leaves fuel (or more specifically, fuel pressure). Have heard of people finding various critters blocking the inlet.

Sounds like you have an extra aftermarket fuel filter? Our d22's only have one filter and a water trap with float switch that screws onto the bottom of the filter itself. Have you got a lift pump with it?
 
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I'll take off the intake pipe
Is this now after the turbo. Basically cutting the turbo out of play

I'm needing to take out one injector and test to see if it actually has enough pressure on the fuel line to give squirting. Is it a difficult job. I see myself as quite handy. But definitely no full time Mac
 

Horatius

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I'll take off the intake pipe
Is this now after the turbo. Basically cutting the turbo out of play

I'm needing to take out one injector and test to see if it actually has enough pressure on the fuel line to give squirting. Is it a difficult job. I see myself as quite handy. But definitely no full time Mac
Yeah, should be ok just to see if it kicks over. Either that or give the whole intake a good once over. Someone on here did mention having the intake blocked from a critter once, an owl or something.

Fuel problem seems more likely. Never taken an injector out of one of these (and hope never to do it lol).

Hi thanks for responding
I have lift pump with its filter. And water trap with filter
So that's two extra filters?

I thought about a really course filter with water trap/ bowl once, but decided against it. Not fond of the idea of adding extra restriction to the fuel system. Should be ok with a lift pump though (and a lot of people would disagree with my point anyway).

But should there not be a code on the obd scan
Not necessarily. Afaik the d22's use some proprietary system that normal scanners won't work properly with. There's a way to do it, not sure how though. Easiest way to get codes is by the engine light method, it's in the manual somewhere (and explained in various posts).
 

Horatius

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ps. Glow plugs working?(although it probably should kick over without them) It also might be worth checking all fuses?

The "NATS" is something I don't think we got here so know nothing about it. Do they have a remote unit anywhere, or is the whole thing done by the main ecu?
 

Boogieboots

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If the disconnected CAS was picked up by the mechanic then he was probably using the correct consult scan tool (rather than OBD2). So you had no fault or check engine light before calling in the mechanics? Most of the pump issues do come with a fault code but as Tweake said they can just die so anything is possible. They have their own control chip onboard
As Horatius said, not sure what the nats thing you mentioned refers to. So the ECU was removed to check it?
And I remember the blocked intake wth an owl story he spoke of too😁.
I think that may have been Old Tony🤔
 
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K. So I went doe to the Bosch agency and they to believe that it sounds like the pump
I can have it taken off repaired and refit for Roughly R40k or buy complete engine import for R35k. But just doing some last tests

On the pump there is a 6 wire plug. I know pin5 is the blue one with red trace (for selonoid cut off)
And assume red and black is just positive and negative
Another must be for can h. And can L and one more

Can someone please inform me what they are for
 

tweak'e

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Thanks. I hear you. But should there not be a code on the obd scan
by memory i don't think it makes a fault code. i think its the main driver chip or one of the leads that tends to fail.
common problem in other vehicles that use the same pump.
 
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by memory i don't think it makes a fault code. i think its the main driver chip or one of the leads that tends to fail.
common problem in other vehicles that use the same pump.
Does anyone know of away to temp bypass this to see if I get start
Like the break out box
Doesn't have to drive. Just , need idle. I don't have cash laying around to spend foolish
 

tweak'e

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Does anyone know of away to temp bypass this to see if I get start
Like the break out box
Doesn't have to drive. Just , need idle. I don't have cash laying around to spend foolish
don't know of any.
if its the usual mosfet or wire fault that i've seen then there is no way around it.
as the ecu that fires the injectors is built into the pump i doubt that there is an easy bypass.

yeah the rebuilds are not cheap, thats the trouble with the later diesels the injection systems can be worth more than the vehicle.
 
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