D21 Tach Interchange - TD27T (UK Terrano) into TD27 (Navara)?

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RockoD21

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Hi -- do you all know if a tach from a 94 Terrano (UK model, TD27 Turbo, auto trans) could be transplanted into the cluster for a 94 Navara TD27 Nonturbo, manual trans? Visually they look the same, though I am unable to confirm precise part numbers.

I have the source and target pictured below. I am thinking about buying the "source" from an overseas supplier to replace the dead tach in my cluster.

Thanks for any advice/wisdom!
 

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no idea with nissan, but a lot of terrano's where ecu controlled and ecu controlled pumps can have different rpm output signals from the injection pump.
i have a toyota that had issue, i had to get a gauged that matched the injection pump (tho there is signal converters around).
 
I ended up swapping the tach from a TD27 turbo UK Pathfinder into my TD27 nonturbo Pickup (JDM). The part numbers were exactly the same - K26061 73P03 -- but unfortunately the new tach is still not registering. It's completely dead when the truck is running.

Do I need to check the tach wire now with a multimeter, at the back of the gauge cluster? For constant voltage, and then rev the engine to see the voltage rise? Is that how it works? I have a shop manual so I can probably figure which wire.. but it seems really difficult/intricate to do that.

Thanks
 
not really, tho you may get voltage readings. the sender sends pulses. i would check the feed off the injection pump first.
 
Hi -- old thread I know -- I could use a bit more help though. My tach (TD27T tach in a TD27) is registering, but it is reading low. At idle, it is reading 0 (no signal). Once I start to accelerate the tach rises, but it never reads above 1500 RPM no matter how high I rev it.

The TD27T tach and the TD27 tach had the same part numbers and looked the same, front and back. I am trying to figure out if the TD27T tach is calibrated differently, or if the sender is sending poor signal. How might you go about next steps for this? Would I still get this reduced signal if the sender was bad? Thanks for any ideas.
 
Is it just high resistance in the connection? Could be dirty - for that matter, it could be a high resistance in the ground side too (both positive and negative need to be clean for a good circuit, or else it's not a "good circuit" ).

It's also possible that the tachometer component is failing, but it's not a common thing - dirty/loose electrical connections are very common!
 
Is it just high resistance in the connection? Could be dirty - for that matter, it could be a high resistance in the ground side too (both positive and negative need to be clean for a good circuit, or else it's not a "good circuit" ).

It's also possible that the tachometer component is failing, but it's not a common thing - dirty/loose electrical connections are very common!
Thanks for the helpful reply! Perhaps I should just run two new wires from the sender to the tach? It's very hard to follow the tach wires from source to tach because they split off and run through a loom with other wires.

Do you have any tips how to figure which two wires at the gauge cluster come from the tach sender? I can't seem to find a wiring diagram.

Thanks
 
You can use a multimeter on the back of the cluster. Direct connections should present 0 ohms of resistance. Otherwise I'm of little help there, and I don't have a wiring diagram for that car.
 

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