Can’t turn over crank to set timing

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Fair enough. Though bare with me here (I can be thick lol) as I'm trying to understand their reasoning. Pressure testing a head involves pressurising the water jacket (with water or air) to find if there are leaks afaik. The cooling system runs at the same pressure (about 15 psi) regardless if it is turbo or not. If they can't replicate that they're in the wrong line of work?

The (likely) most relevant pressure for a cracked head in usage would be from compression (gases entering the cooling system causing overheating). Older non turbo diesels generally had a much higher compression ratio, so would be worse for this than a modern turbo diesel anyway as far as I know (which admittedly isn't that much).

I can see where they might not think it worthwhile, they're non repairable if cracked so if you've already got the head off just change it. They rarely ever seem to do a head gasket anyway, so it might not be considered worth bothering with.
 
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Fair enough. Though bare with me here (I can be thick lol) as I'm trying to understand their reasoning. Pressure testing a head involves pressurising the water jacket (with water or air) to find if there are leaks afaik. The cooling system runs at the same pressure (about 15 psi) regardless if it is turbo or not. If they can't replicate that they're in the wrong line of work?

The (likely) most relevant pressure for a cracked head in usage would be from compression (gases entering the cooling system causing overheating). Older non turbo diesels generally had a much higher compression ratio, so would be worse for this than a modern turbo diesel anyway as far as I know (which admittedly isn't that much).

I can see where they might not think it worthwhile, they're non repairable if cracked so if you've already got the head off just change it. They rarely ever seem to do a head gasket anyway, so it might not be considered worth bothering with.
I get what your saying . I thought it was bullshit too , that’s way I rang around all over the place . Same answer every time . One place 180kms away said they had the equipment and could do it but refused to, as he wouldn’t be able to give a warranty on the work.
 
Update. New head on. Timing all lined up. injectors and fuel rail on. Intake cleaned out and finger tight for now. It’s slow going in between work and family. Got the cat emptied out . Can’t believe how easy it was. Had a 15 inch masonry bit and just kept drilling close together then the whole thing popped out. Complete motor gasket set came with the head so replacing everything while I’m at it. I’ll get there eventually
 

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Did you keep the guts of the cat?
I saw a vid on YouTube recently where people were crawling under cars and cutting out cats for the platinum/palladium etc. (That was in the US)
Must be enough money in it for a bit of crack at least😁
 
Yeah but it’s probably not worth the fuel money from where I am. And I didn’t guy it for the hell off it , it was already stuffed
 
Alright I feel like an idiot but can someone please help me out here . I didn’t take any photos or mark anything when I took the turbo and cat off and now I don’t know which way it’s supposed to go back on. I can’t find anything in the several manuals I have they only have a picture of a turbo for a zd30. I can’t seem to line it all up.
 

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It should go:

Exhaust manifold -> Turbocharger -> Dump pipe -> Catalytic Converter -> Exhaust -> Toyota Hilux Driver

If the Hilux is in front of you, you got the turbo on backwards.

For reference: the turbocharger should have 3 bolts that connect it to the exhaust manifold. The dump pipe should have 4 bolts that connect it to the outlet of the turbocharger. The CAT should have 5 bolts that connect it to the bottom of the dump pipe.

The turbocharger should also have a air inlet pipe that comes off the front (where the air goes into the turbocharger) that then leads up to the air filter. It should have a solid pipe coming off its side that connects (via some pipework) to the intercooler.
 
It should go:

Exhaust manifold -> Turbocharger -> Dump pipe -> Catalytic Converter -> Exhaust -> Toyota Hilux Driver

If the Hilux is in front of you, you got the turbo on backwards.

For reference: the turbocharger should have 3 bolts that connect it to the exhaust manifold. The dump pipe should have 4 bolts that connect it to the outlet of the turbocharger. The CAT should have 5 bolts that connect it to the bottom of the dump pipe.

The turbocharger should also have a air inlet pipe that comes off the front (where the air goes into the turbocharger) that then leads up to the air filter. It should have a solid pipe coming off its side that connects (via some pipework) to the intercooler.
Thanks. I know which order everything goes . It’s just where the cat bolts up to the exhaust is a triangle shaped join and the cat could bolt up to it in any direction. So basically because the join is the same shape in every direction I could have potentialy bolted the cat up the wrong way.
 
No worries, I really wasn't sure if you knew about the Hilux though haha ... wait, the turbo to exhaust manifold join is 3 bolts, turbo to dump pipe is 4, dump pipe to cat is 5 bolts ... so the turbo bolts on with the intake facing the front of the car. The dump pipe has to point downwards and the cat should be straight and not matter much about which way it connects, I don't recall if one of the bolts on the cat are offset to enforce a specific orientation. Does that help?
 
No worries, I really wasn't sure if you knew about the Hilux though haha ... wait, the turbo to exhaust manifold join is 3 bolts, turbo to dump pipe is 4, dump pipe to cat is 5 bolts ... so the turbo bolts on with the intake facing the front of the car. The dump pipe has to point downwards and the cat should be straight and not matter much about which way it connects, I don't recall if one of the bolts on the cat are offset to enforce a specific orientation. Does that help?
Yeah it’s in the correct order just doesn’t seem to line up . I’m going to try mounting the exhaust manifold to the head bolting the turbo up to that loosely then putting the cat on. That way it can’t be wrong . Thanks for the help
 
It is alive!! Unfortunately having a real hard time getting the air out of the cooling system. I’ve jacked the drivers side right up put the heater on full let it idle to warm up then bring the revs to 2000 a few times. Let it cool down checked the coolant still full. Repeated several times with caps on and off . Still only blows hot air when I’m revving it . Got me stuffed
 

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It is alive!! Unfortunately having a real hard time getting the air out of the cooling system. I’ve jacked the drivers side right up put the heater on full let it idle to warm up then bring the revs to 2000 a few times. Let it cool down checked the coolant still full. Repeated several times with caps on and off . Still only blows hot air when I’m revving it . Got me stuffed
 

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At the risk of introducing more air into the cooling system, I wonder what you'll see if you install a clear piece of hose in the line from the EGR cooler to the firewall (which means the heater matrix inside the cabin). What if there's only a very low flow in that, through a partial blockage in the heater core inside the cabin? What if the EGR cooler has a partial blockage? That might be the next step.
 
If they're anything like the zd30 idling them after a coolant change doesn't seem to do much. Never been able to get it full of coolant that way, they struggle to get warm enough to open the thermostat. After a short run to open the thermostat and get water circulating the level drops. Usually takes a couple of goes.

Should be some coolant flowing through the heater but if there are air pockets in the system it might not be much. Again though, thats on a zd30, don't know anything about the 2.5's.
 
Ended up getting an aftermarket radiator. Cooling system all good now. Have ran into other problems now. Starts and idles beautiful, hooked up obd2 as engine light was on and it’s showing cam position sensor . Cleaned the sensor and connector, wiped the code and reset the ecu and it comes back again. Besides that took for a good drive on road it’s just feels absolutely gutless . It feels like it’s getting no boost. Can’t hear the turbo even listening under the bonnet . Turbo was working fine before the whole rebuild . No other codes coming up on obd2.
 
Have you got a way to read boost pressure? If the turbo isn't controlled by vacuum like in the D40, it should just be producing boost all the time as long as the wastegate is closed.
 
Have you got a way to read boost pressure? If the turbo isn't controlled by vacuum like in the D40, it should just be producing boost all the time as long as the wastegate is closed.
Don’t have a boost gauge on it. Can just tell a major difference in sound . Is there a way of testing the waste gate while the engines running? The only other thing I can think of is the obd2 was reading fuel rail pressure at 30000kpa at idle I’ve heard that’s really low
 
Idle fuel rail pressure sounds about right. If you can read the data from the OBD port, get the boost pressure from there. The waste gate should be closed normally, take a look at it. If it's failed and is sticking open, there's the cause.
 
Idle fuel rail pressure sounds about right. If you can read the data from the OBD port, get the boost pressure from there. The waste gate should be closed normally, take a look at it. If it's failed and is sticking open, there's the cause.
Appreciate the reply and forgive my ignorance but how do I tell if the wastegate is open or closed?
 
There should be a vacuum-operated actuator (so that the ECU can open the wastegate). This should pull up to open the wastegate. If you (using a new piece of hose) suck on the actuator, does it move the arm at all? Is it all the way up already? Try pushing it further down, does it move ("down" means towards the connection on the turbo, away from the actuator).
 

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