Can’t turn over crank to set timing

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Way too expensive for one and the other out of stock but thanks
Ikr... $$$$$$

Go machine shop, that way you know for sure the valves are all seated and at the right angles.... Even new heads can come with shite valve set ups, they just slap them together.. if you'rereally serious you remove the valves that come with it and check the seat angles etc

I'd go a bare head and get the shop to fit the cams and valve train...
 
Ikr... $$$$$$

Go machine shop, that way you know for sure the valves are all seated and at the right angles.... Even new heads can come with shite valve set ups, they just slap them together.. if you'rereally serious you remove the valves that come with it and check the seat angles etc

I'd go a bare head and get the shop to fit the cams and valve train...
I bought one fully assembled. To keep warranty I’ve got to tow the car into the mechanics and get them to torque it down and set the timing. I’ll get them to check the valves while their at it.
 
Thanks yeah looks like the same seller I was looking at. I’ve messaged them several times asking about the warranty , it says 5 years . Did yours come with a warranty ? What were the conditions if it did cause I can’t get a straight answer

As far as I'm aware it's a 5 year warranty, I have the installation receipt from a proper mechanic and will keep it, although I don't really expect any troubles.
 
As far as I'm aware it's a 5 year warranty, I have the installation receipt from a proper mechanic and will keep it, although I don't really expect any troubles.
Another quick question what did you do with the old head? Worth keeping for any reason or do people buy them ?
 
Another quick question what did you do with the old head? Worth keeping for any reason or do people buy them ?
I would keep them! The shims are "or where" hard to get, so any spares may help you out when it's valve adjustment time... Me, I'd strip it and store the cams and valve train and smelter the rest...

That's if you're into that sort of stuff eh I want to teach myself how to do a valve adjustment on a ZD so I'd store the shims if nothing else..


I need to recycle the head for the alloy so i can afford the specialized valve tools to do the job with the cams in..
 
Another quick question what did you do with the old head? Worth keeping for any reason or do people buy them ?

I still have the old head. There's a chance that there's nothing wrong with it, and my leak was just a head gasket. I've got a few things on my plate at the moment, and cleaning up the head and doing a decent inspection is not high on my list at the moment.
 
I still have the old head. There's a chance that there's nothing wrong with it, and my leak was just a head gasket. I've got a few things on my plate at the moment, and cleaning up the head and doing a decent inspection is not high on my list at the moment.
What! You replaced the head without inspecting it first, wow lol it must be nice to be rich eh ...
 
What! You replaced the head without inspecting it first, wow lol it must be nice to be rich eh ...

I wish. I didn't have the opportunity to pull it down and check it, I was working in pit lane at the Bathurst 6 Hour. The mechanic that I handed the car to looked at it and said there was a crack in the head between an exhaust stud and a head bolt, I took his word for it and rather than pay the $4k for a genuine from Nissan, I paid $1300 for an aftermarket complete with camshafts, valves, springs, all adjusted ready to go. The entire thing was funded by our holiday account, which means we're going nowhere this Christmas. :(

It doesn't really matter any more - it's done. I will be servicing an old lawn mower tomorrow to try and get it running so I can mow my forest lawn, my lawn mower is at my daughter's place because it does such a good job (and is self-propelled - Honda HRX217). If I have time I'll pull the head out and have a bit of a look over it, but I have a friend whose son is having major issues (like our boy, he's got several problems) and she's nearing the end of her rope, so I have asked her to come over here for a cuppa tomorrow and if she doesn't come over, I'm going to go get her. She needs a distraction. I might even take her for a ride on the bike - she's never been on one before.
 
Ha, im just pulling ya chain Richie Rich.... All good, at least she's on the road and racing Toyota's;)

Ahhh it doesn't cost much to go camping for Christmas... There's plenty of nice rivers about :)

Oh no man, that's not good news at all bloke! Yes mate, distractions are great, full noise that baby and she'll forget a trouble for a minute, and one minute can make one hell of a difference eh.. all the best and safe travels,,,,,, Richie ;)
 
Loving the shit talk . Rang around plently of places and the consensus was if it’s a turbo diesel and overheating just replace it. Nowhere anywhere near me would pressure test it and they all pretty much said he’ll no not worth the grief . Man I wish I was moneybags. This car is costing me big time
 
Loving the shit talk . Rang around plently of places and the consensus was if it’s a turbo diesel and overheating just replace it. Nowhere anywhere near me would pressure test it and they all pretty much said he’ll no not worth the grief . Man I wish I was moneybags. This car is costing me big time

You could just replace it, but there's absolutely no reason why an ordinary mechanic wouldn't pressure test the radiator for you. They have the gear - you could buy it in Supercheap yourself I guess, but that's something you'd hardly ever use and they use all the time. If I went to my local guy and asked them to do it (these are country mechanics, they service tractors too) they'd just grab the tool and go for it.

Overheating could be several things - like the viscous hub, radiator, water pump, thermostat ... I am at a loss as to why they'd just tell you to throw money at it without trying to diagnose it first.

Then again, the Nissan service manual follows the same logic. Step 1: replace the most common failing part. No success - replace the next part and so on.
 
You could just replace it, but there's absolutely no reason why an ordinary mechanic wouldn't pressure test the radiator for you. They have the gear - you could buy it in Supercheap yourself I guess, but that's something you'd hardly ever use and they use all the time. If I went to my local guy and asked them to do it (these are country mechanics, they service tractors too) they'd just grab the tool and go for it.

Overheating could be several things - like the viscous hub, radiator, water pump, thermostat ... I am at a loss as to why they'd just tell you to throw money at it without trying to diagnose it first.

Then again, the Nissan service manual follows the same logic. Step 1: replace the most common failing part. No success - replace the next part and so on.
Rang around 4 different machining shops with a 150km radius. They all told me the same thing . I would have had to ship it to Sydney . I’ve already got the new head now so ahh well
 
But more of an update . Got the Ute into the shop to get the new head bolted down and timing set up so I can have the warranty on the new head. They rang this morning saying the kit didn’t come with dowel pins. Looked at my old head - no pins. Asked them if they’ve looked at the block for them- no good. I definitely haven’t lost them anywhere all I did was take the old head off and give it a bit of a degrease . So it seems some knobhead had done a head or gasket job in the past and not put dowel pins back in place . Could explain a lot
 
Loving the shit talk . Rang around plently of places and the consensus was if it’s a turbo diesel and overheating just replace it. Nowhere anywhere near me would pressure test it and they all pretty much said he’ll no not worth the grief . Man I wish I was moneybags. This car is costing me big time
Are you talking about the normal coolant system pressure test? Not sure why anyone wouldn't do that. It's unlikely to find a cracked head in one of these unless it's really bad, but you never know I guess.

A proper pressure test on the head is a different thing though afaik. Not many places can do one unless it's removed from the engine, then they set it up and can use high enough pressure (and heat) that they can tell you for sure if the head is ok.

Had it done once on an old diesel. Used to overheat every now and then, not often, but was always a pita when it did. Drove it around for years like that, no one could find a thing wrong with it. I drove it to Queensland and back like it. Didn't run low on coolant, no other symptoms.

So one day I decided to take the head off and have a look. Found no obvious problems so I got it tested, was hoping I would only need a gasket. Of course it had a very small fine crack in it. Cost about 250 for the test, but in the end was the only way I found out it was definitely the head itself.
 
Are you talking about the normal coolant system pressure test? Not sure why anyone wouldn't do that. It's unlikely to find a cracked head in one of these unless it's really bad, but you never know I guess.

A proper pressure test on the head is a different thing though afaik. Not many places can do one unless it's removed from the engine, then they set it up and can use high enough pressure (and heat) that they can tell you for sure if the head is ok.

Had it done once on an old diesel. Used to overheat every now and then, not often, but was always a pita when it did. Drove it around for years like that, no one could find a thing wrong with it. I drove it to Queensland and back like it. Didn't run low on coolant, no other symptoms.

So one day I decided to take the head off and have a look. Found no obvious problems so I got it tested, was hoping I would only need a gasket. Of course it had a very small fine crack in it. Cost about 250 for the test, but in the end was the only way I found out it was definitely the head itself.
Was it a turbo ? Cause 4 different places told me don’t bother with a turbo diesel head that’s been overheating. 3 of the 4 said they couldn’t replicate the pressure on a bench
 
Was it a turbo ? Cause 4 different places told me don’t bother with a turbo diesel head that’s been overheating. 3 of the 4 said they couldn’t replicate the pressure on a bench
Non turbo. Wonder why there would be such a difference?
 

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