Brake pads and rotor replacement

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Ryno78

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Hi All,

Just very interested to see when you guys have had to have your brake pads and rotors replaced.

Just had my 50,000k service (D40 ST, 4WD Auto) and got a call saying that they were down to 2mm, and they would replace them.

Got up to the workshop (Nissan) after work, and the cost of the service and brake work was $1078.

Just questioning if it is reasonable to be expected to replace these every 50,000k? I never replaced them in my old Navara (2007 STX Manual) and I did 100,000k in that one.

From the service reports the measurements were:

10,000km - 8mm
20,000km - 7mm
30,000km - 7mm
40,000km - 4mm
50,000km - less than 2mm.

Doesn't seem right to me.

Happy to hear your opinions or experiences?

Regards,

Geoff
 

mike1303

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im coming into 80k on mine and i have no intention of swapping either of them out.
Last i looked into it i could get DBA T2 slotted rotors for $132 each. free shipping
plus pads at around 80-100 Give or take....
fit them all up myself.
 

camo.b

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103000kms here and original pads and rotors.plenty of meat left on both...but im mainly rural kms and have a manual
 

vicszd

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WWWWWWHAT..... did they show you the old one's ?
Brake pads maybe as SOME new one's are eco' friendly and don't have the old style compounds and are now softer - wearing quicker ! The up side of this is that the pads are not as harsh as the old style on rotors and the rotors will last longer with less machining on pad changes..
I don't like to say it but I just don't trust mechanics- especially Nissan work shop ones !
Name and shame man- ****'em ! the mutts they are !
 

Old.Tony

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My factory rotors were stuffed at 40,000km, but mind you I was towing 1.8T almost everywhere and in spite of the electric brakes in the van the car's brakes still got a workout. Mind you, I had a Tekonsha Voyager controller which doesn't auto-adjust for inclines. My current Tekonsha Prodigy P3 auto-adjusts so I don't have as much of a problem.

I had after-market rotors fitted at the 40,000km service and just had the 160,000km service done today - brakes are still in very good condition.

I have a set of DBA slotted rotors waiting to be fitted but I can't see the point of wasting the current rotors since they're doing pretty bloody well - 120,000km (and now towing 2.5T) and going strong.

Nissan rotors are soft. Pads are too and the Nissan pads were designed by the companies that make alloy wheel cleaning fluid.
 

J13NST

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Mine is at 46k km but need to be changed pretty soon. Late d40 must be came with much softer rotors and pads. Got quoted 485 for supplied fitted with dba t2 slotted and bendix pads. I reckon much better price than genuine
 

D40-4Life

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I had after-market rotors fitted at the 40,000km service and just had the 160,000km service done today - brakes are still in very good condition.
Tony. What brake pads are you using? You've got to use some pretty good ones since you're towing an awful lot of weight.
 

Old.Tony

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I've got some no-brand pads in at the moment, but will be changing them to Bendix pads soon. I'm not happy with the braking performance.

However, the car doesn't do most of the braking for the van. The van (by law) has electric brakes on all 4 wheels and the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller that I use allows me to vary the strength of the braking force exerted by the van's wheels. This allows me to back it off for loose/slippery surfaces.
 

D40-4Life

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but will be changing them to Bendix pads soon
I've heard good things from bendix. Which one are you going with? 4WD/SUV or heavy duty?

I've never really felt satisfied with some of the brake pads I've put in since the original factory ones. They've never performed as well, but the factory ones were great, but only lasted 30K which isn't too bad.

Are there bendix type pads that are close to factory specs?
 

OldManBeard

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I've heard good things from bendix. Which one are you going with? 4WD/SUV or heavy duty?

I've never really felt satisfied with some of the brake pads I've put in since the original factory ones. They've never performed as well, but the factory ones were great, but only lasted 30K which isn't too bad.

Are there bendix type pads that are close to factory specs?
It really essentially boils down to selecting soft pads that perform really well but wear fast or hard pads that won't perform as well but will last longer. It's not often that there will be much more of a selection than that. I encourage you to visit one or more brake specialists and talk to them, as they should be able to offer to sound advice, based on how you use your vehicle. The two brake places I've always used have always given me solid advice, after asking the necessary questions to ascertain my needs. I've even installed different hardnesses at each end, based on their advice, and been well pleased with the outcome.
 

Old.Tony

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I've heard good things from bendix. Which one are you going with? 4WD/SUV or heavy duty?

I've never really felt satisfied with some of the brake pads I've put in since the original factory ones. They've never performed as well, but the factory ones were great, but only lasted 30K which isn't too bad.

Are there bendix type pads that are close to factory specs?
I'll probably go with the 4WD softer pads, so I get better heat management and better braking performance. Sometimes when I'm going down a hill at a constant speed, the caravan brakes just don't come on (I do use the manual override a bit) but it'd be nice to know that my brakes are still going to be good at the bottom of Thunderbolts' Way.
 

OldManBeard

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Thunderbolts' Way
Never having been that way I was a bit curious to see how it compares to roads I'm familiar with. Checking the contour lines on my maps suggest it's not too horrendous but of course, they never tell the full story, especially as my maps only show contours to a 25m resolution. The person who wrote this article seems to not be a fan of the road. :)
 

joe2006

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Around 200,000ks and my original pads, discs and shoes are still looking fine. Maybe I just go too slow?:LOL:
 

pol327

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The most important thing with any vehicle is that it stops> In the words of Enzo Ferrari "Anybody can make a car go fast however it takes a genius to get it to stop".

To Ryno78,
If your last Navara was a manual and you now drive an automatic then that would explain a reasonable amount of wear difference, also the factory changes brake pad and rotor compositions as things evolve and your driving or towing habits may have changed.
If the mechanic tells you that the pads are down to 2mm then have them replaced and ask for the old parts to be kept. Depending on the caliper design some pads will wear quicker on the trailing edge than the leading edge or vise versa.
Harder pads that last longer however they will wear the rotor away as the pads wear out, softer pads wear quicker and 'sometimes' allow the rotor to be saved for a second pad change.
I have found with a lot of cars that they will develop brake shudder well before the pads wear out. Then usually the only remedy for this is a full rotor pad change.
Very few rotors are able to be machined these days as by the time the pads wear out the rotor is at or below its minimum thickness and it is illegal to machine them past this measurement.
As Oldtony says, Bendix make a quality product and usually have a few different grades of pads depending on your driving habits, fitment choice is yours. DBA rotors are a good choice. I would stay away from no brand parts.

My D40 is at 96000km and the pads are still like new, I do very little towing and as my car is a manual I do a reasonable amount of engine braking which saves the pads. However even though they look new the brakes are starting to shudder when stopping hard at speed.

To vicszd
You don't trust mechanics, which is my trade, so fair enough , perhaps you would like to tell us your occupation ?
 

OldManBeard

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As Oldtony says, Bendix make a quality product and usually have a few different grades of pads depending on your driving habits, fitment choice is yours. DBA rotors are a good choice. I would stay away from no brand parts.
Just be aware that Bendix, like any other manufacturer, can and does on occasion make crap. I bought new Bendix pads for my last car and took them back a week later. With only about 600 Km on them, one of the pads had started breaking up. The brake place where I bought them didn't argue. They took the whole set off me with assurances they would be sending them back up the line to Bendix. They didn't hesitate to hand me a new set from a different batch while offering their apologies. They also checked their stock and took a couple of other sets from the same batch as my defective one off the shelf, so they could be returned as well, just to be sure.

With good brands, such things are pretty rare but they do happen. I learned a long time ago not to write off a brand just for one bad item. Two would be a different story...

On the subject of rotors, I agree with avoiding unbranded ones, or even from manufacturers that don't have a solid reputation. I do, however, disagree that the only solution to brake shudder is the replacement of the rotors and pads. Pads yes but rotors can often be skimmed to give a true surface. I've even had a set machined on-site while still on the car, for a total of $70. They had warped when I was forced to brake hard while driving through water but had enough thickness that they could be safely machined. They were still working perfectly when I got rid of the car, around 150,000 Km later.
 

Old.Tony

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Never having been that way I was a bit curious to see how it compares to roads I'm familiar with. Checking the contour lines on my maps suggest it's not too horrendous but of course, they never tell the full story, especially as my maps only show contours to a 25m resolution. The person who wrote this article seems to not be a fan of the road. :)
The stretch of road they're talking about is about 145km long and there's really not much there between Gloucester and Walcha, the two major centres in the area (Walcha being on the Oxley Hwy cross-road gives it some vitality but it's really not that large a town, neither is Gloucester). It is very hilly, almost entirely farmland and forest, and their report on the condition of the road is true for some of it, but it's been improved a fair bit. The issue is the hills - some 12%, one 13% inclines. Makes for a slow trip up with the van, but we do it every year (and sometimes twice, once in winter as well), and sometimes an additional run up there on the bike.

Points of interest: Carson's Pioneer Lookout, worth a stop. Nowendoc - about 1km off the road, has no major services but a rest area with toilets that's sometimes handy (particularly on the bike). Bretti Reserve - camping area that is sometimes frequented by cows. Gloryvale Reserve is another popular camp spot but suffers from poor entry access and proximity to the road, although the relatively light traffic makes this less of an issue.

The problem with the road is the length and angle of those inclines. It's like Bulli Pass coupled with Mt Ousley repeated several times.
 

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