Blown up engine 2014 d40 thai built

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Zdeno

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Hi guys I've just found out my motor on my 2014 rx d40 stuffed had car for a yr still have 4 more years of paying it off!!
Devestated, looking to buy second hand
Motor but they are pricey wondering is there any cheaper way of doing it like some sort of conversion.
Also wondering has anyone have a motor for sale I'm in gympie qld 4570
Any ideas would be appreciated
 
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Welcome to the forum.

Well before you go and buy some unknown quantity engine what is wrong with yours? When you say blown up. What do you mean? Has it done something dramatic like window the block or noise, smoke then stop? Have you had it diagnosed?

As for conversions. Rarely a good idea. Would probably cost more than repair. Then alone time and grief going through all the compliance.
 
My mechanic said motor oil was like tar
Said turbo is gone manifold and dpf also I'm not very mechanical minded
But looked around and I'm not sure if it's worth to fix the car it's a big loss because I still have to pay it off I'm just looking at all my options at the momment
 
Does it actually run though after an oil change?? Is there bad knocking?? Blowing smoke?? Pass a compression test?? A new turbo is cheaper than the engine, dpf and manifold are not terribly complicated to change....... remember auto wreckers can be your friends........

Putting it into perspective i rebuilt mine after a snapped crankshaft, including a new head, and a good deal on a bottom end someone wanted to get rid of, cost me around 4 k, that included alot of machine work, gaskets, rings, bearing, and a brand new head, keep in mind i am mechanically minded and did the work myself...............
 
I'm going to see my mechanic tomorrow to get full details spoke to him on the phone he told me it's not worth fixing
 
spoke to him on the phone he told me it's not worth fixing

Oil like tar Hmm. Sounds like it has little to bugger all maintenance on it. I would get another opinion. If it's just turbo and DPF it would be worthwhile to have it repaired. Particularly that you own money on it. Other option is sell it at quite a loss. Be interesting to see how you go. Good Luck!
 
"Oil like tar" - runny tar, or thick? Pull the dipstick yourself and take a look. Diesel oil goes black very quickly and that's perfectly normal. Diesel oil is not a lot different to oil used in petrol cars when you look at it

Another question: did the 2014 RX model get a DPF? Anyone? You'll have to jump underneath and take a look, under the passenger footwell the exhaust should run towards the rear, and if it has a DPF you'll see a large section towards the front (much larger than the exhaust) with a heat shield, two electrical connections and two thin metal pipes coming off it. If you don't have this, you don't have a DPF. If there's no DPF, you might want to see a different mechanic.
 
I'm going to see my mechanic tomorrow to get full details spoke to him on the phone he told me it's not worth fixing
Considering what this is likely to cost you, I'd advise getting a second opinion. I've known other people who were told their vehicles weren't worth fixing, yet managed to find another mechanic that could do so for a reasonable price. Mechanics are no different to people in any other occupation - whether it's a diagnosis or a repair. If the job's a little out of their ordinary, some just don't want to do it, so they tell you it's not worth the price.
 
Oil like tar Hmm. Sounds like it has little to bugger all maintenance on it. I would get another opinion. If it's just turbo and DPF it would be worthwhile to have it repaired. Particularly that you own money on it. Other option is sell it at quite a loss. Be interesting to see how you go. Good Luck!
I'm not sure
Considering what this is likely to cost you, I'd advise getting a second opinion. I've known other people who were told their vehicles weren't worth fixing, yet managed to find another mechanic that could do so for a reasonable price. Mechanics are no different to people in any other occupation - whether it's a diagnosis or a repair. If the job's a little out of their ordinary, some just don't want to do it, so they tell you it's not worth the price.
Update
My mechanic told me turbo is gone manifold is gone dpf gone also said bec use oil was like tar that motor is not worth repairing he also told me probably will cost me for a replacement second hand motor fitted would cost around 10k maybe 11k I don't think I will get it repaired I'm worried if I replace motor it happens again??
 
I'm not sure

Update
My mechanic told me turbo is gone manifold is gone dpf gone also said bec use oil was like tar that motor is not worth repairing he also told me probably will cost me for a replacement second hand motor fitted would cost around 10k maybe 11k I don't think I will get it repaired I'm worried if I replace motor it happens again??
I understand and I did read your original post. "Oil like tar" does not necessarily mean the engine can't be saved and needs to be replaced. As I said, get a second opinion, or would you rather take one mechanic's word for it and scrap the Navara? From what you wrote I get the very strong sense that the mechanic you went to simply doesn't want the job and just wants you to bugger off. Seriously, are you not prepared to spend a little time and a small amount of money to verify that what you were told is the truth? A second opinion may give the same answer but imagine how much you might save if he says it's salvageable.

Turbo, manifold and DPF you should be able to replace for less than $2,500, that's if they even need replacing. I recently replaced my turbo, which had a price tag of $600 but I got $50 knocked off that for cash. The DPF was replaced with this one. Check with wreckers for a manifold. Don't forget the gaskets. If you're not up to doing the work yourself, buy the parts and find a mechanic prepared to install them for you.
 
I'm getting car put back together again paying for Labour they did then waiting for proper quote on paper of motor and install and the rest of it then I will go and get second opinion
 
Another question: did the 2014 RX model get a DPF? Anyone?
Manual Trans Thai built had no DPF but Auto's did. Supposedly because revs vary so much more with autos. Go figure on that one.
My mechanic told me turbo is gone manifold is gone dpf gone
What do mean gone? Particularly in regard to the manifold. Does he mean it's just caked up with carbon? That is a fairly easy fix. Even DPF's can be cleaned if you have the time and inclination. Seen it done before. I have seen engines de-gunked (for want of a better term) by short very interval oil changes and things such as removing the sump and valve cover and removing what you can. However you do run the risk that things like rear main seal may start leaking. BTW how many K's has it have on it?

Judging by the pics you put up it looks in quite reasonable nick. Be shame to give up on it.
 
Manual Trans Thai built had no DPF but Auto's did. Supposedly because revs vary so much more with autos. Go figure on that one.

What do mean gone? Particularly in regard to the manifold. Does he mean it's just caked up with carbon? That is a fairly easy fix. Even DPF's can be cleaned if you have the time and inclination. Seen it done before. I have seen engines de-gunked (for want of a better term) by short very interval oil changes and things such as removing the sump and valve cover and removing what you can. However you do run the risk that things like rear main seal may start leaking. BTW how many K's has it have on it?

Judging by the pics you put up it looks in quite reasonable nick. Be shame to give up on it.
160000ks um turbo inside had movement on fins also said something like oil would be going thru turbo and because oil was like tar that the motor would be stuffed it's where because the car was going sweet before dpf light came on and went straight into limp mode it is a good car but I can't see any sense in spending a 11k on it ive now waiting for mechanic to put back together so I can pay him for Labour God knows how much that's going to be.
Thanks to everyone on this forum for there input and being so helpful it ease the pain a bit lol, I will keep you all informed with the progress or non progress
 
The car definitely looks in good nick.

I've seen fully reconditioned engines available for less than $10K. Here's one for $6300. But that may not be necessary.

If the fins inside the turbo are moving it might also not be the end of the world. HOW they're moving is an issue. If the shaft holding the impeller (the round thing with the fins) can be wobbled from side to side then yes the turbo will need replacing. You have a choice of 2nd hand from a wreck (maybe don't, because you don't know how it was treated), refurbished (may be ok), new Chinese (possibly just fine, I have one, had no trouble with it) or new genuine. Genuine will cost anywhere from $1500 or so (Brisbane turbo supplier) to about $4K if you get it from Nissan (and it is quite literally the same thing).

Oil passing through the turbo - it's supposed to! The oil vapour from the crankcase ventilation system (PCV) enters the air intake just a couple of centimetres in front of the turbo. That's what it was designed to do!

Here's what I'd do, mostly in order:

1) Check the turbo to see if that shaft really is wobbling or not. This is probably the worst thing to deal with $-wise.

2) Change the engine oil. Put a whole fresh lot of proper diesel engine oil in, add some extra cleaning shit from Nulon or Liqui Moly or whoever and run the motor until it's warm then dump all that oil and refill with fresh. Put a new filter in now too. See note at the end of this post.

3) Remove the EGR valve from the end of the intake manifold. Using a vacuum tool, suck the muck out of the intake manifold. This can be done at any time.

4) Block the EGR tube (take the gasket off the end of the gold pipe, cut a copy of this gasket but don't make the large central hole in the gasket, add gasket cement and install both, with the original gasket on the intake manifold side). This can be done at any time.

The DPF can be solved in a number of ways. First check that you have one! Assuming you do ...

A) Replace the DPF with a new one from Nissan. This is ridiculously expensive (about $4K).

B) Get a second-hand DPF from a wreck. Again, you don't know if it's going to be good - it's a risk. I wouldn't.

C) Get a "DPF Delete Pipe". It removes the need for the DPF, it was about $1100 last time I saw one. Not my first choice.

D) Write to auggie here on this forum and ask him for replacement DPF sensors. Not sure what he's charging for them these days, but I paid somewhere in the $500-600 region and they just work without any fuss. I did have my DPF modified with a large chisel to improve exhaust flow.

Important note:
Diesel engine oil looks and feels very similar ot engine oil for petrol motors, it is quite different in its properties. Diesel accumulates soot from the blow-by, and blackens very quickly after an oil change, and in order to keep the oil galleyways clear, diesel oil has detergents added to it.

It's entirely possible that if your oil has started clumping up, the previous owner may have been using ordinary engine oil and neglected to change it. We used to have someone on this forum some years back who had experience with a diesel Pajero that had seen over 100,000km without an oil change and the oil was simply black but functional. I'm not recommending increasing the time between services, but the point is that 100,000km of driving didn't clump that diesel up, so it's possible that it was the choice of oil - and changing to the right oil might resolve your problem.
 
Further to what Tony said, not only is diesel engine oil different but a vehicle fitted with a DPF requires specific diesel engine oil (low ash). The wrong engine will ultimately result in DPF failure.

Assuming yours is a journal bearing turbo, there must be some side to side movement which is necessary for lubrication. The movement is taken up when there is oil pressure following engine start up. The amount of movement however must be within specifications. Excessive play will eventually result in the impeller touching the housing and that would evident on inspection.
I would not give up on the car yet. It might not be as bad as you think.

I had a cracked dump pipe and one exhaust place wouldn't touch it because it was a Navara. I went to another shop last week and it wasn't a problem, doing a very professional job.
 
I agree with all the boys, don't give up on your car. I'm no mechanic but what they are suggesting makes so much sense. I have been reading for many years on this forum of people like yourself that thought their car was gone and by the end of the post they were saying, Hey Thanks guys! the car is going great! When something like this happens the first thing to feel is doom and gloom after your mechanic passed sentence on your car, I would take all the advice given above and start thinking Yeah maybe they are right! Good luck and keep us posted.
 
now waiting for mechanic to put back together so I can pay him for Labour God knows how much that's going to be.
I would tell him not to put it back together. Don't touch it. Read up, get as much info and knowledge as you can. Look, find and ring up mechanics in your area that know what they are doing with common rail diesels. Tell them your situation. You really have to be proactive here. Just get your ute trucked to another mechanic. Tray back tows are relatively inexpensive to what it may cost and by the sounds of it could be money well spent.
 
You know we are all saying basic common sense things, if the oil is thick and 'tarry' with like golden syrup then, yeah it can be a problem, but as mentioned a deisel, any deisel runs black oil, my navs oil was black after 500km on a fresh rebuild, with all the old black oil cleaned out. A good flush will sort the thick oil out

I doubt very much your (i assume inlet) manifold is bad, at very worst it could stand a clean, they are a substantial ally casting

At worst, you could be up for a turbo, but i wouldnt be convinced, my car has 365000 on it and the turbo still makes up to 20psi

And as i dont have a dpf, it would be worthwhile to do as the others have mentioned

Dont be put off by a mechanic who is quoting this and that, some of them arent that great, and some may just not want the work,

my daughter was told her brakes where dangerously worn, i got the pads, and rotors and when i looked at them they where like new, the disks on the car where thicker then the new ones i had bought, and pads had 60% left in em, not the less than 10 the mechanic said
 

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