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Average life of a YD25 clutch?

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amber.2

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My last D22 with a 2.5 Diesel had 69,000 km on the spedo and still had the original clutch , Clutch only last as long as the driver treats them carefully .
 

grumpy too

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Have an engine here of unknown K's which has original clutch and it is ok but compared to two other engines here with heavy? duty clutches it looks very light but the wear plates are still ok, of the 3 in total other motors all have replaced clutches one with 190k one with 220k and one with 280k which by service records was replaced at 230k with a heavy clutch, the 220 k motor had just had the clutch replaced as has absolutely no wear before motor blew.
 

KevinE

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My 2013 D22 has 146,000K on it & has towed pretty much every day of use since new - still on the original clutch.

I knew someone who bought one the same week as me & the clutch was shot in less than 26,000K's - he doesn't tow. He bad mouthed the car & Nissan over it, then traded the car when the new clutch went in.
 

Damian m

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My 2010 d22 has got 340k on the original clutch, it has spent a lot of time up near its weight limits too.
 

Mutley29

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My 2010 d22 has only 160k - clutch needs replacing, but I bought it secondhand so don't know how it was treated previously.

On that note any recommendations where to take it in Brisbane?
 

grumpy too

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Think clutch wear depends more on driver than anything else, just make sure if you replace it you do the spigot bush and thrust bearing as you only want to do it once, they make it ridiculously hard to access.
Personally I would even get the timing chain wear tested and if needed do it at the same time as you would have to do almost as much or more again to do it later.
 

KevinE

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Think clutch wear depends more on driver than anything else, just make sure if you replace it you do the spigot bush and thrust bearing as you only want to do it once, they make it ridiculously hard to access.
Personally I would even get the timing chain wear tested and if needed do it at the same time as you would have to do almost as much or more again to do it later.
Just a question about doing the timing chain at the same time; do you have to pull the engine to replace the clutch on these? (I hope not!) Or is there some other reason?
 

grumpy too

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To do the clutch you need to basically remove all front and rear drives as well as front diff especially if doing timing chain but then you also need to remove idler arm to drop sump.
For clutch or timing chain you also need to remove torsion bars and crossmember so you can drop the gearbox down far enough to access top bolts if only doing timing chan you only have to split the motor gearbox about an inch to access the two rear 6mm bolts below the rear seal but be easier if gearbox is not there or motor is out.
Note remove wires off starter motor before removing bolts holding it to bell housing and be aware that one bolt just above starter motor undoes from the front, also the crankshaft sensor near the starter motor MUST be removed before splitting motor gearbox.
Best to download a copy of the manual referring to engine removal prior to starting.
It's not really that complicated just a lot of time due to having to remove all the extra bits to access the bit you are trying to fix, it's a one man job but would be easier with two, YD25.com say it's a 19 hour job to do the timing chain and they must have found a way to access the top bell housing bolts so they don't have to remove torsion bars etc, good luck with that.
If you go to YD25.com web page they have a bit about how to test the timing chain for wear electronically.
 
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KevinE

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Ahh, thanks! I see what you mean about doing the timing chain while everything is already happening to replace the clutch. Great post by the way! :)
 

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