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Try doing the pedal dance, to do a fuel system reset. Any changed Fuel related components require it, so Turbo, SCV, MAF, Boost control valve etc.

After a rebuild of my engine, an aborted Core change for my Turbo, & Chasing many Red Herrings, the truck was still not running correctly. Using The Torque App, I noticed that When Accelerating hard on a flat road, there was only ~12-14psi of boost (see graph) and looking in at the turbo over...

OK, thanks for that, but After pressurizing the tank, I have found no leaks. But I suspect it may have been a bit of a red herring. I'll start another thread on the turbo...

Just make sure your Vac hoses are connected correctly. like the picture... and make sure the ones on the other side of the engine are also on correctly. If that is all correct and the problem is still happening, with the engine running check for vacuum at the turbo end of the pipe connected to...

Sorry but GunMentalGrey is correct, 3D printed plastic would not be strong enough. you may be able to bend some AL bar at right angel, & screw it to the existing, & have it extend out slightly further, for the mounting hole...

My 06 has this too, sure its not used. Put some Injector cleaner in the next tank (cant hurt).

I still have the issue of noisy injectors on acceleration, & pulsing (hunting), & it will die sometimes at idle. But I think it is air in the fuel line, Because there is air in the fuel line. I have Replaced the primer & filter with Nissan genuine, all the fuel flexible hoses & clamps, from...

Bit of an update. When I re-built the engine I replaced the turbo core, as I noticed (when cleaning the vanes) that the original exhaust side had some chips in the fins. So Removed the new turbo core, and put the old one back, and it is running better. the new one definitely seems to have been...

I think you are correct on the boost, I have noticed a Hiss near the Turbo, and getting under there can see soot on the exhaust side of the turbo core where the vane actuator passes through, A boost leak perhaps causing lag down low, & then feeling a bit dead once the boost comes on as well, as...

Possible boost/exhaust leak... Any hiss would be a different issue to the bubble' if you have one.

The symptom I have is lots of clatter from the injectors on acceleration, this went away once I got rid of most of the air (the air seems to come back though). I still have the similar hesitation issue though, I tried bypassing the solenoid, as PAT said but it made it as though there was not...

@ Cozmic191, when cold, if you get a mate to rev the engine to about 2000rpm, can you hear a hissing sound near the turbo that goes away, once you rev it a bit more/ or once the boost comes on?

Hi am having very similar problems with my 2006, after I built a new engine, I have checked my Cam Chain and it lines up with the fuel pump spot on, but its a bit more difficult to see the crank chain timing marks. Could this cause this hesitation, & I also have surging under mild Acceleration...

Have you seen this thread? https://www.nissan-navara.net/threads/fault-p0488.61594/ This deals with the EGR too:

Hey thanks for that, but the EGR is blanked already, & the black smoke goes away once you get down the road a bit. I'm going to check that there is no leakage from the fuel rail pressure release valve, next.

I used one from these guys: ZEDperformance.co.uk seemed to be good value for a double row conversion kit, came with vacuum pump sprocket that just bolts on (some kits don't).

Hi all, I'd appreciate some advice on this, have looked all over the net for similar problems, & tried many fixes but to no avail, I'll list what I have done below My Navara has the following symptoms: Note: there are no Codes At cold start there is no power & black smoke, when first trying to...

Does yours have a Vacuum solenoid for the turbo? symptom is Black smoke & no go.

I Have also found that Transmissions with the bolt pattern in the top picture can have Model# 94X6E or 3HX8C on them. Not sure what the difference is, but the 3HX8C is a 5 speed.

I Note that the Crank angle sensor holes on the above, are in slightly different places. so would that preclude swapping bellhousings? as the timing would be out?