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Sounds like a dry bearing -the squealing and intermittent seizing. Will wreck ur belt very quickly. The AC compressor is not turning when off.

First of al, the ZD30 orientation is not a common rail diesel. The injector pumps are a known cause of failure, a replacement will cost anywhere from $k3 to over $k4 depending who u buy from. Installing the pump can cost another $k2. Can be done by anyone who has the tools and some mechanical...

If it starts and runs ok when cold, then it mechanically good. Just had the head off mine for head gasket at 300k and everything was good. Even cam chain. Check turbo boost and ur injector pump ( at a Bosch diesel place) They can tell u how ur advance is looking, a good indicator of its health...

A small point. If u have a VP44 pump which I think al pre common rail ZD 30’s have, the injector spill line goes back into inlet pipe at pump. To bleed, it’s best to disconnect the legible hose where the spill line comes out of the head. Any air coming into pump then rises up that tube to be...

Ok. Having just replaced injector pump and head on my ZD30 I can offer a heads up on timing if ur only doing the head. No need to remove large(gear) cover. Remove timing chain cover and align timing chain marks and see if the camshaft marks are aligned. If so ur off and running. If ur feeling...

I have 2095 zd30 d22. One switch for neutral and one switch for reverse. I tried LEDs for tail and reversing lights and after having same problems as u I tested with multimeter and got a reading of 9-10 volts which is not enough to excite some LEDs. And makes for dodgy operation of filament...

My understanding is that the pumps are the same, it’s the ecu that controls advance and amount of fuel. I’ve just been thru the exercise of replacing the pump on my zd30 motor and the pump reconditioners told me the same pump I’d used on different models and manufacturers. I run the variable...

I have pondered and rants about this too. But here’s the thing. U(or myself) are not likely to buy a new Ute/car anytime soon. So who does. Cashed up individuals usually keep them for life of warranty which can be a few years. Trade them and get another. Corporations buy new vehicles and...

Hello. Have the same year/model. People go on about some of the issues the pre common rail d22s have, but these issues will never cost u the money and/or hair loss that later vehicles have. The things I like the best about these utes is quiet running-no rattles!!- and generally unbreakable. Enjoy

I had similar problem and traced it to a very small hole that a rat had chewed in the hose connecting the radiator to coolant bottle. So check that hose holds vacuum

Multiple places on drivers side of engine for an oil leak. Between head and front cover is an ‘o’ ring for the oil that pressurises the chain tensioner. Oil will run down and become visible between block and injector pump. Injector pump bolts where if bolts onto front cover. Try tighten bolts...

If it’s been serviced regularly and had a normal life, it should go for a long time. These motors give their best between 2-3000 rpm. Fit an engine guard if u buy it, the temp gauge is is not a reliable indicator of actual engine temp.

I would be getting a temp gauge sensing air temp as it goes into inlet manifold before going thru the trouble of replacing intercoolers.

Crankshaft key at 12 o clock and camshafts on no1 are both not in contact with valves. That’s injection/firing stroke. If valves are moving ur on overlap-end of exhaust stroke and beginning of intake.

Variable vane turbos have one drawback and that is the variable vane(exhaust/hot side) are known to play up. I would be worth dismantling the turbo and have it inspected by someone with experience before u do some major damage to the turbo or engine

Ok. Have sane year d22 with zd30 motor. Bought at an auction and had never driven on before. Let’s just say it was the most “relaxed” Fidel I’d ever driven. It was pressuring the radiator and I could see whoever had owned had spent money trying all the usual‘cheap’ fixes when it was obvious the...

If ur worried about egr valve overheating temporarily do the blank job. But the heater in my 2005 d22 works better some days than others. But always enough to get by, but I’m N Qld. We can get a frost sometimes, lol

Got to h ave a decent set of exciter boxes for HID s. A bigger wattage than the globes. All those start up and flickering problems go away. If they could make and LED bulb that would throw some distance instead of lighting up the road signs I’d probably use them

That’s why I like my HIDs. Bright enough to use without any help, and the hi/low is achieved by the bulb itself altering position when u flick or pull the lever on steering column. No change in light intensity or that fraction of a second where different circuits or filaments are lighting...

Sounds like u have it at a good spot. Alarm is usually ten to fifteen degrees over normal