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Prolly 1200

Block off the egr so your engine isnt breathing its own soot back in, and fit a catch can so it isnt breathing its own oil back in. Wont stop it making soot (which is just what diesels do) but will keep your intake and oil clean and your beloved machine will be healthier and live longer.

Its hitting somewhere. 99% probability of this with any 3" zorst. Get under there and have a squiz. Left rear shackle bolt is another common knocking point. Will have to trim a bolt, tweak a hanger, bash a dent in somewhere, loosen a bunch of exhaust flanges - realign and re-tighten, or any...

Sounds about right. Im doing 2750 @100kmh in 5th

The question was whether an suv tyre will work. I would imagine it would be an even more road car like experience than an LT h/t

With all the traction control, stability control and abs you wont be able to get sideways no matter how good your WRC skills are. Any reputable tyre will be fine.

Haha, yeah still alive and in the navara. 280,000km on her now. Barely run in!

Anyone running one of these yet?

I just bundled mine together, went around once with black electrical tape, and used a big cable tie through the vent holes in the console. Its out of the way and neat enough. That thing down the bottom is just the ground wire.In my rotary i have two of them for egt. Ijust cut two square holes in...

I used a 1/8npt inline adapter to mount the sender in the fuel line. Just before the IP. The OE fuel lines are dying of old age too.

^ That looks nice. I use these; https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_26&products_id=226 I use them for boost, EGT and fuel pressure. I use their senders too. Not very sexy to look at but do the job and all the senders seem pretty much OEM quality. They stack neatly...

Yes, Have gauge in cab.

^ Yep. Tweakes knows his shit. He held my hand while i did this install and directed me to a high flowing pump and stainless steel mesh pre filter. The set up works ace. Aeroflow holley black knock-off still working great. Pushing about 8-9 psi at idle and 5-6psi at full noise.

Lol.

I'm not sure what the turbine housing a/r is on that but i reckon it would be better. The 2554r was a bit laggy, not laggy but didnt come on properly until after 2500. It had a .42 a/r Im currently running a td04 similar to this, but with smaller compressor and a .32 a/r - it boosts up earlier...

^Yeah I've used that stuff after long intervals just to make sure. Nothing nastier than normal came out. I also use Penrite oil.

Yeah, i initially just put a blanking plate at the inlet manifold and installed a catch can, but later on when doing other work which involved removing the turbo and exhaust manifold removed the whole lot and put more blanking plates in. It doesnt really matter either way as long as its blocked...

Ive got a zd30 since new oil came out black as you could imagine. Even at 5k intervals. EGR removal fixed that. Oil comes out almost as good as a petrol engine. Your mates on crack, if that much soot was staying in the engine, where would it be getting stored? The head would have popped off...

^ they are probably an ok design. The one i had came with a rusty, mild steel spring, and wouldnt stay adjusted. Using two large spanners on a tiny thing hanging off a bit of vacuum in a space that you couldnt even swing two spanners was tiresome. Maybe I just got a shit one. Not disputing...

^ What he said, but I'm pretty sure the new turbosmart MBC's are ball and spring? https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-1/boost-controllers-accessories/turbosmart-boost-tee-boost-controller-black-detail Not that I am endorsing them, but ive ****ed around with the turbotech...