Search results

If it starts smoking while it's idling it shouldn't be the DPF. It's not supposed to initiate a regen when the engine is idling but it is possible that the ECU has determined that a regen is vital/imperative and will now just do it until the DPF sensors give it a good response. That might be...

That's certainly one way of doing it. Once the water starts coming out clear you're pretty much done. Radiator should take around 10 litres if I recall correctly, so your bucket ought to be sized appropriately. That same bucket, by the way, is the size you'd choose for a drinking container once...

The DPF sensors themselves can still bugger up and cause problems. Had it happen myself, I was pulled over for a random breath test one day and the thing smoked like a chimney, I had to turn the engine off. Upon restart it didn't smoke for a bit. Does yours only smoke after the engine has...

You could pop it out to do a faster job (the flush won't flow quickly past the thermostat with the engine cold), but for a reduction in spanner time you could drop the flush in and idle the engine for a while - it'd probably be faster overall anyway!

I understand that the issue is this: coolant flows from the radiator to the reservoir while the engine is running but it doesn't flow back when the engine cools. A subsequent running of the engine could pump even more coolant into the reservoir causing the reservoir to overflow (causing a loss...

Does yours have a DPF?

The normal battery for my car is a 770CCA battery which is sufficient for the 500-550 amps the starter will draw when cranking. However, Century have a 910CCA battery that JUST fits in the tray (make sure there's no stray hair on the battery because it's that tight). It's the one I've been...

Definitely sounds like a battery - I've had those exact symptoms before and recharging the battery has fixed it. If you were driving at the time, then I'd say either there's an issue with the alternator (maybe a loose belt?) or the cabling to the battery isn't 100% or there's a fault inside the...

Oh I'm not alone here, there are quite a few people here with oodles of experience and great knowledge that they're happy to share.

It's sump oil. You could return it to the sump, but it's been vaporised and sent out the PCV so there's no telling how good it will be at lubricating anything. Not sure if you recall - I certainly do, they were a complete pain in the tail if you were a motorcyclist - the black pools of oil at...

It mostly answers my question. Under normal conditions, as the coolant heats up it expands and pressure forces it to move to the overflow. When the coolant in the radiator/engine cools again it contracts, creating a vacuum in the radiator/engine which sucks the coolant back in from the...

Connect the two coolant lines that go to the EGR pipe to each other instead. Try driving the car. If your EGR cooler is busted, it could leak coolant into the intake manifold and this could be turned to steam in the combustion process but - if the revs aren't high enough - it could dampen...

Radiator can look fine, but a thermal image (many mechanics have these tools) would reveal areas that aren't heating up as expected (which means they're blocked). You can get decent aftermarket radiators, just be sure to have the air bled from the system before you drive it too much.

Welcome!

First question is: does the coolant flow back to the engine as it cools down? How's the coolant level in the overflow on the next morning?

Adblue is injected into the exhaust pre-CAT (because adblue is a chemical reductant that reacts with the rare earth metals in the catalytic converter). It's unlikely to be the cause of your woes because even if it were in the exhaust manifold and water was being injected and landing on the...

The Km should follow the cluster, so that's something to consider. Backlighting might be a connection problem - test the earth point?

Depends on the year model. If it's 2013 or older you're likely to get away with just blanking the EGR off (at either end, or both ends if you want to take the pipe out altogether). Then you'd just put a joiner in the coolant lines and be done with it. The older cars won't throw a code because...

Ok, definitely sounds like the SCV. Pull yours out and have a look - there's a marked difference between short and long versions of the SCV, instantly noticeable. Short: Denso part number 294200-0360 Long: Denso part number 294009-0120 The short one might be available for other vehicles as...

Have you tried a suspension shop? ARB sell good gear.