Engine failure

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No need as the new motor comes with the Balancer already attached. along with my Fuel Pump and a better oil pump. The rest of the stuff I have to attach from my old motor to the new one, Thermostat, fuel lines, Injectors etc. it also uses my rocker cover. The bolt will come out easy but the balancer is an interference fit I think.
 
Has anyone had any luck replacing the injector seals in the rocker cover? As it is a plastic cover I am reluctant in case I do some damage.
I remember reading in another thread that it's not worth the effort of replacing the seals individually and to just replace the whole thing. Many others asked the same question

(I might be wrong, but sounds very familiar)

https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-navara-d22-d40-yd25-rocker-cover-assembly
How's the build going?
 
I ordered one on line Areyourshop Rocker Valve Cover 13264-VM00A For Nissan Navara D22 D40 YD25 Generic.

Things are at a bit of a standstill atm. I have gone as far as I can so far, I have been cleaning everything that looks like it needs it. Replaced a couple of exhaust and intake studs. Just waiting on the motor. I emailed YD25 and asked how things are so far but he hasn't got back to me as yet. When I originally talked to him he said about 3 weeks once they got the Timing cover and fuel pump. So that was 2 weeks gone this Monday so hopefully they will let me know maybe next week.
 

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Motor should be here in the next few days. Once it is in I would like to crank the motor without it starting, just to get the oil through the passages. I was thinking about disconnecting the fuel injection connectors? Any other better ideas before I get to it.
 
Motor should be here in the next few days. Once it is in I would like to crank the motor without it starting, just to get the oil through the passages. I was thinking about disconnecting the fuel injection connectors? Any other better ideas before I get to it.

John it will take several cranking episodes to get it going anyway.
 
Engine arrived today. Now starts the process of putting it back. It comes without the Rocker cover, rear cylinder head cover, timing signal plate and lower sump. After I put it back in I will organize return of my old motor
 

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One thing I noticed was that there are no torque settings for the rear cover plate and the Timing Signal bolt in the service manual. It has it in the D40 but not the D22 Same motor I suppose FWIW 58.8 nm for the signal bolt and 22nm for cover plate bolts
 

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Hi Johnl56, just read the thread and cannot stop wondering how a snapped primary chain can break both camshafts like this. I cannot think of any way this could have happened. Maybe you should rethink the whole situation and start at the camshafts? My theory is, that the broken cams were the cause of the problem that led to the primary chain snapping. The camshaft is a solid metal bar 3cm in diameter and its just spinning. It doesn't care if the valves and pistons are in sync. The only thing that can cause a camshaft to break like this is that something blocks it as it is spinning. In addition to breaking the cam the transferred return energy would also cause the primary chain to snap as it is the weakest link in this path. In your posted picture 20221012_113112 in the lower part right next to the head bolt, there is something visible. A small metal part with a fine thread that doesn't belong in there...
 
Hi Johnl56, just read the thread and cannot stop wondering how a snapped primary chain can break both camshafts like this. I cannot think of any way this could have happened. Maybe you should rethink the whole situation and start at the camshafts? My theory is, that the broken cams were the cause of the problem that led to the primary chain snapping. The camshaft is a solid metal bar 3cm in diameter and its just spinning. It doesn't care if the valves and pistons are in sync. The only thing that can cause a camshaft to break like this is that something blocks it as it is spinning. In addition to breaking the cam the transferred return energy would also cause the primary chain to snap as it is the weakest link in this path. In your posted picture 20221012_113112 in the lower part right next to the head bolt, there is something visible. A small metal part with a fine thread that doesn't belong in there...

odds are the primary chain skipped teeth and valves on one cylinder hit the piston, hence both cams breaking in the same place.
cams are hardened steel, they tend to be brittle rather than flexible. it only takes a hard knock for them to break.
 
That is the carrier bolt, in the first picture you can see the carrier is snapped and the bolt is missing. When the bottom chain snapped the cams stopped rotating but not the crank No 2 cylinder wore the brunt of the meeting of the valves and piston.
 
Seems plausible. That must have been a horrible sound when the two cams broke. Hope I never get to hear that. Anyway, I wish you all the best with your new engine!
 
Funnily enough when it went I didn't hear the cams break, just engine died and massive loss of power. I didn't know they were snapped until i took the rocker cover off. It will go in this week barring any major setbacks. Taking my time.
 
Just the clutch and flywheel and it is ready to go back in. Going to give the engine bay a clean first but it should be ready by the end of the week. The fan assy will be taken off. I was checking the space between the alternator mounting bolt and the pulleys. The nut from the factory is at the back of the bracket but there is enough room to have the nut at the front. A lot easier to get to when adjusting the belts.
 

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