2010 Nissan navarra ST DPF nightmare

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Garry

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I have a 2010 navarra ST, the engine was reconditioned recently, the problem I’m experiencing is the DPF, had a new one installed at a cost of $1500, it lasted one week before completely blocking up and total loss of power, had it replaced with another new one, also new sensors fitted as well, car computer was checked with no abnormalities, car has now lost all power again and I’m assuming DPF has once again completely blocked, lasted about a week, ( no warning lights appear on dash ), my mechanic is on the verge of slashing his wrists as to the cause, any thoughts on a Possible solution would be greatly appreciated
 
I was unaware that the 2010 ST model had a DPF, but then I'm often surprised by unexpected things (like the guy in the mirror when I'm shaving, I'm sure I've seen him before somewhere, but he copies my movements really well so I'm not going to complain).

It COULD be a DPF issue, but it could also be a boost control solenoid. If this plays up, the turbo won't boost and you'll have clouds of black smoke around (or you should, but the DPF might be capturing this and filling up). It would make sense to check boost levels. Boost should be 0 at idle, but should climb to around 20psi at 1800-2000rpm (the peak shouldn't be too much higher than that, maybe 22-23psi tops).

If it's not getting boost, there are several possibilities.

1) Turbo's shot. I doubt it (for now).

2) BCS is shot. Test it: connect the turbocharger directly to the vacuum pump (max boost at all times). Drive the car but try to back off the throttle gently, otherwise you'll end up with turbochatter as it overboosts. If the power is there, it's probably the BCS (a common fault). Either replace the BCS with a new unit, or move to a Dawes or Tillix valve.

3) Vacuum leak. Unusual for it to be erratic but it's possible. Usually it's a hardening of the hoses allowing them to crack particularly where they bend, sometimes the hose will gloss up on the inside and allow vacuum to leak.

You might also consider cleaning the MAFS (in the air intake just outside the air filter box). Do not under any circumstances put anything except liquid or gas in the hole in the end (you'll see it). Electrical contact cleaner - or MAFS cleaner (same stuff) will help a lot here.
 
I was unaware that the 2010 ST model had a DPF, but then I'm often surprised by unexpected things (like the guy in the mirror when I'm shaving, I'm sure I've seen him before somewhere, but he copies my movements really well so I'm not going to complain).

It COULD be a DPF issue, but it could also be a boost control solenoid. If this plays up, the turbo won't boost and you'll have clouds of black smoke around (or you should, but the DPF might be capturing this and filling up). It would make sense to check boost levels. Boost should be 0 at idle, but should climb to around 20psi at 1800-2000rpm (the peak shouldn't be too much higher than that, maybe 22-23psi tops).

If it's not getting boost, there are several possibilities.

1) Turbo's shot. I doubt it (for now).

2) BCS is shot. Test it: connect the turbocharger directly to the vacuum pump (max boost at all times). Drive the car but try to back off the throttle gently, otherwise you'll end up with turbochatter as it overboosts. If the power is there, it's probably the BCS (a common fault). Either replace the BCS with a new unit, or move to a Dawes or Tillix valve.

3) Vacuum leak. Unusual for it to be erratic but it's possible. Usually it's a hardening of the hoses allowing them to crack particularly where they bend, sometimes the hose will gloss up on the inside and allow vacuum to leak.

You might also consider cleaning the MAFS (in the air intake just outside the air filter box). Do not under any circumstances put anything except liquid or gas in the hole in the end (you'll see it). Electrical contact cleaner - or MAFS cleaner (same stuff) will help a lot here.
Thanks mate, the mechanic replaced the DPF, and the sensors when it failed previously at a cost of $2500, ( not sure if a check was performed on the two metal tubings from the DPF up to the sensor for blockages or leaks, he checked all information via a computer hook up to the system and everything appeared normal, ), drove the vehicle for a week till it went into a limp mode, with absolutely no power to pull away from the kerb, I sent him a message 3 weeks ago letting him know what’s occurred but I think he’s disowned it, putting it in the too hard basket.
contacted a guy in WA who had previously replied to other posts on this site and he advised a probable cause much the same as yours, so maybe I’ll have to attempt some checks myself,
 
The pipes heading up into the engine bay to the small black sensor are the pressure differential pipes. The black sensor is a hall effect device that looks at the difference between pressures in the two pipes.

The important sensors are the electrical ones front and rear of the DPF, and Mat sells replacements of these if they're needed. At the moment, I'd say yours doesn't need that, but keep him in mind if the DPF starts to go beserk.
 
why would you replace the DPF? they can be cleaned out.
only thing that really stuffs them is if someone uses non-dpf engine oil, especially on a reco engine.
if its just blocked up by soot, then you can either find why its making so much soot, or get rid of the dpf.

common cause of to much soot is to much egr. blocking egr would help, also i would vent the engine breather to atmo. a reco engine will produce more blowby until rings settle in. to much blowby going back into the intake causes problems and increases soot production, which then gets caught in the dpf.
 

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