STX-550 radiator replacement

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R

Rice

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Joined
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Location
Brisbane, Australia
Hi guys, I need some help and/or advice PLEASE.
Last week I replaced the factory fitted radiator with an all aluminium radiator. When juiced up and run the engine light came on (code P2457) EGR etc. my EGR is blanked off and deleted from the ECU???????
Next day cleared the code again and went for a longer run - all ok, yesterday the exhaust was roaring found and error code regarding the turbo, now, to clear the code the engine has to be turned off - code cleared - start car and car drives but lacks power (middle of this week we go to Bundaberg).
BTW the new radiator has a pressure cap (have contacted seller) I think that may be causing the issues because fluid is not getting to where it is supposed to go because of the extra pressure cap, there are no leaks anywhere.
TIA, Eric
 

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Hi Landmannnn, that's what I thought, supplier does not have flow through caps, so I modified the existing (old) flow through cap, disconnected the battery to reset the ECU but the error keeps on coming back. There is no air bleed in the car so I think maybe there is an air block that maybe causing the issue. What are your thoughts?
Eric
 
Further to this ongoing saga, I am having the sneakiest suspicion that the electrical connection to the EGR pump is NOT plugged in, it may have been pulled out when trying to get the fan shroud back in OR I may have unplugged it when trying to get the bloody radiator back in. To get to it at the moment I will have to disconnect the bottom radiator hose and the EGR hose and feel around blindly (mmmm, seem to remember doing that many years ago in the back of a Mini). sorry but I have to keep a sense of humour or I'll scream.
Will keep posting regarding progress.
BTW there are two bleeders in the V9X version - passenger side close to the firewall.
20170521_132155.jpg
114.jpg
 
Also there is a specific air bleeding process on this engine, not the same as the YD engine.
 
Blanking off the EGR doesn't necessarily remove the EGR cooler analysis from the system. There's a temperature sensor in the EGR system to monitor the temperature of the EGR gas (hence the need for a cooler) and if this sensor - or the exhaust gas temperature sensor (in the exhaust itself) may have failed. It may also be as simple as an electrical fault - a sensor that's supposed to have an electrically grounded (ie connected to negative) outer casing will not return expected values if the ground connection is erratic or missing altogether.

As a test, you could try temporarily connecting a wire from the EGR cooler to the battery negative. This is how it's supposed to be, so doing this won't damage anything at all. Your exhaust shouldn't need it because the bolts holding the exhaust on should conduct power but you could try it here too just in case. This will at least tell you if there's just an issue with power to the sensors.
 
I have an STX550 that has also had a lot of issues.
I’m no mechanic, but I can let you know issues I have had & some of the associated causes.
I installed a high quality intercooler & catch can on my 550. While in the process of going too Hell & back I discovered that my mechanic squashed the coolant overflow pipe underneath the “New Radiator” when he installed it. I’m not sure if that causes any overheating issues or not, but the engine seemed to run a bit hotter than normal.

Getting back to your power issues. When I pulled off the front end of my 550 to install the catch can, I found that the installation of the new manifold, which bolts on to the to the turbo, I found a fair bit of oil in the old pipe work & the turbo throat, once I connect the new intercooler & put it all back together, I found the pipe kept blowing off the inlet side of of the system. As soon as there is a leak the power is shit. I know that you are saying that you don’t have any leaks, but it wouldn’t hurt to cave another look.
As for erasing codes, apart from using your code reader, which doesn’t last sometimes, there is a sequence that involves the use of the accessories position of the ignition & with drivers door open & holding a particular accessories button in for 5 seconds while making several gear selections.
I can’t remember the sequence, but you may be able to look it up, or if you know, or one of your mates know a mechanic from a Nissan dealership. I found the the error codes that may be a doggy sensor. Also running injector cleaner can also help with the power delivery.
I don’t know if any of that is helpful or not.

The 550 is a hard Vehicle to work on.
Regards
S.Richo
 
Hi everyone just like to note for you that there is a problem with bleeding the air out of the cooling system on a v9x I had a hell of a lot of problems with mine when I had to take the motor out and I found in the end that Nissan had a very particular sequence of doing it. In the meantime it threw up that same p2457 code all time and it seems that it is a very generic type code. As soon as the air problem was fixed I had no more problem. According to the Nissan technician it is something they see regularly with people that are changing their own coolant.
 
Thanks for the responses,
First, @landmannnn I remember coming across the procedure on one of the other/older forum sites, will look it up.
Second, @Old.Tony I will locate the EGR, which seems like it is buried under 3kms of tubing, and try your suggestion, would a multimeter be of any use?
Third, @stks your description regarding the accessories, it it supposed to delete the code?
Fourth, @Olpha Isthis what you mean?

I came across this..................

richard56 said:
Try method of bleeding below.
Air relief plug is on heater hose by scuttle
Good Luck :D

Fill radiator and reservoir tank to the specified level.
l Pour engine coolant through engine coolant filler neck
slowly of less than 2 (1-3/4 lmp qt) a minute to allow air
in system to escape.
l Use Genuine Nissan Anti-freeze Coolant (L250) or equivalent
in its quality. Refer to MA-14, "RECOMMENDED FLUIDS
AND LUBRICANTS".
l When engine coolant overflows air relief hole, install air relief
plug.
4. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature without radiator cap and reservoir tank cap installed.
l If engine coolant overflows radiator filler hole and reservoir tank filler hole, install radiator cap
and reservoir tank cap.
5. Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle speed with radiator cap installed.
l Repeat two or three times.
CAUTION:
Watch engine coolant temperature gauge so as not to overheat the engine.
6. Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C (122°F).
l Cool down using a fan to reduce the time.
l If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant.
7. Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with engine coolant.
8. Repeat steps 3 through 6 two or more times with radiator cap installed until engine coolant level no longer
drops.
9. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running.
10. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000
rpm with heater temperature controller set at several position between COOL and WARM.
l Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.
11. Repeat step 10 three times.
12. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating steps 3 through 6 until engine coolant level
no longer drops.
 
It went a bit like that but you need to add on the end that if you fart in the cab everything might change:LOL:
They really can be difficult. The bit about genuine Nissan coolant I am not really convinced but that is what went into mine anyway and I have not had any problems in 40k.
 
The manual suggests a different process for the V9x, the process above is for the YD.

You can see why people don't get it right. Point 22 is interesting... Pretty much go through the whole process several times!

1. Install reservoir tank if removed, and radiator drain plug.
CAUTION:
Be sure to clean drain plug and install with new O-ring.
If water drain plugs on cylinder block are removed, close and tighten them.
2. Remove radiator cap and tank cap.
3. Check that each hose clamp has been firmly tightened.
4. Remove air relief plug (1).
5. Fill radiator with engine coolant.
6. Fill reservoir tank to max level.
• Pour engine coolant through reservoir tank slowly of less than 3 (2-5/8 lmp qt) a minute to
allow air in system to escape

8. When engine coolant overflows air relief hole, install air relief plug. Then refill reservoir tank to “MAX” level
line with engine coolant.
9. Install radiator cap.
10. Start engine, and stop at once.
11. Leave engine for about 10sec. Then check the coolant level at the reservoir tank.
12. Refill reservoir tank to “MAX” level line with engine coolant.
13. Repeat step 10 through 12 until engine coolant level no longer drops.
14. Install reservoir tank cap.
15. Warm up engine until opening thermostat less than 2,000 rpm.
• Check thermostat opening condition by touching radiator hose (lower) to see a flow of warm water.
CAUTION:
Watch water temperature gauge so as not to overheat engine.
16. Stop the engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C (122°F).
• Cool down using fan to reduce the time.
17. Refill reservoir tank to “MAX” level line with engine coolant if necessary.
18. Repeat steps 15 through 17 two or more times with reservoir tank cap installed until engine coolant level
no longer drops.
19. Check cooling system for leakage with engine running.
20. Warm up the engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to
3,000 rpm with heater temperature controller set at several position between “COOL” and “WARM”.
• Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.
21. Repeat step 20 three times.
22. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating steps from 8 to 21 until engine coolant level
no longer drops.
 
landmannnn said:
The manual suggests a different process for the V9x, the process above is for the YD.

You can see why people don't get it right. Point 22 is interesting... Pretty much go through the whole process several times!

1. Install reservoir tank if removed, and radiator drain plug.
CAUTION:
Be sure to clean drain plug and install with new O-ring.
If water drain plugs on cylinder block are removed, close and tighten them.
2. Remove radiator cap and tank cap.
3. Check that each hose clamp has been firmly tightened.
4. Remove air relief plug (1).
5. Fill radiator with engine coolant.
6. Fill reservoir tank to max level.
• Pour engine coolant through reservoir tank slowly of less than 3 (2-5/8 lmp qt) a minute to
allow air in system to escape

8. When engine coolant overflows air relief hole, install air relief plug. Then refill reservoir tank to “MAX” level
line with engine coolant.
9. Install radiator cap.
10. Start engine, and stop at once.
11. Leave engine for about 10sec. Then check the coolant level at the reservoir tank.
12. Refill reservoir tank to “MAX” level line with engine coolant.
13. Repeat step 10 through 12 until engine coolant level no longer drops.
14. Install reservoir tank cap.
15. Warm up engine until opening thermostat less than 2,000 rpm.
• Check thermostat opening condition by touching radiator hose (lower) to see a flow of warm water.
CAUTION:
Watch water temperature gauge so as not to overheat engine.
16. Stop the engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C (122°F).
• Cool down using fan to reduce the time.
17. Refill reservoir tank to “MAX” level line with engine coolant if necessary.
18. Repeat steps 15 through 17 two or more times with reservoir tank cap installed until engine coolant level
no longer drops.
19. Check cooling system for leakage with engine running.
20. Warm up the engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to
3,000 rpm with heater temperature controller set at several position between “COOL” and “WARM”.
• Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.
21. Repeat step 20 three times.
22. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating steps from 8 to 21 until engine coolant level
no longer drops.
Click to expand...


I have gone through the same process, replaced the fan belt and idler and tensioner pulleys, installed a new radiator and installed a plazmaman intercooler and provent IV catch can. The radiator is really difficult to remove and replace but care and persistance it can be done but it takes time to get the sequence right. The bleeding of the air out of the cooling system is a little more tricky. On the V9X there is a coolant pump down on the left )passenger) side near the radiator and that gets an air lock in it that throws codes. By disconnecting a pipe up the top near the egr where the end of the pipe runs to you can fill with coolant and replace and that is how I was able to bleed mine, it worked straight away. Follow the first recommended procedures and do this one last. The STX550 now has new lease of life and more punch than with the OEM intercooler.
 
I also found this from another member.... I have had p2457 on my 550 when I changed the coolant.I think its the egr cooling pump running out of prime.The pump is located at bottom lhs of radiator.There are 2 hoses that come up near the over flow tank and go to egr cooler and pump.I pulled them off an filled them with coolant cleared codes and they never came back./QUOTE]
 
Took the 550 to my mechanic today on the way to Bundaberg. He did the proper radiator bleed and it still threw up the error. He noticed that the area where the pump is located is quite oily, thanks to the previous catch can that was there, we assumed, and quite logically, that when I had tucked the pipe (from the radiator) out of the way I may/must have got some of the oil saturated dirt in the pipe and when put back onto the radiator the gunk was forced into the pump and has jammed or partly jammed the pump. Suggestion was take it out and replace, kaching kaching kaching!!! (he offered to do it) Other suggestion was to try a reverse flush of the pump with water or air.
Stay tuned folks as my friend Alice said after she finished a joint "It gets curiouser and curiouser!"
 
You could buy the genuine Nissan blue, but it is expensive.
To be honest any long life OAT coolant will do the job, Readily available at your local auto parts shop. I assume you are draining and replacing.

Important - don't buy the concentrate and mix with tap water. Either use distilled water or buy the pre-mix
 

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