Recent content by Old.Tony

In my car, which is only slightly older than yours (electrics are going to be the same), I have to have my gearbox in neutral and my foot on the brake to take the vehicle out of 4LO (not just putting it INTO 4LO, it's also coming OUT). If you are doing it that way, there may be an issue with...

Bit of a puzzling one. Ok, the intake vaccum solenoid - I assume this is the turbocharger boost control solenoid? It has a vacuum line that goes to the round gold part on the turbocharger? If so, this is a common failure point but it shouldn't shut the car down. It will just make it blow black...

Several things are possible. The things you can check are the fuses and relays for the air conditioning in the engine bay distribution boxes (there should be diagrams in the lids of what each fuse/relay is for). Also check the condition of any hoses connected to your refrigerant lines, we had a...

Good post. The most I've added to my diesel heater (not my car) was 50ml of kero to 10L of fuel. It's supposed to lower the wax point of diesel. I wouldn't replace diesel - as they point out in the article, kerosene isn't much of a lubricant and the Navara fuel pump definitely needs fuel-based...

Welcome to the forum. Chances are it's not the EGR valve, but an electrical gremlin that's crept in. It's not uncommon. The main things to check (which means look at, take apart, clean and reassemble) are: * Both battery terminals * Fusible link on positive terminal * Battery negative...

Also check the EGR pipe in case it's got a hole in it (or cracked).

Winter here is a different beast, I've managed to start the car in -11C which is about the coldest we've had. Summer, on the other hand ... that's a whole new kettle (emphasis on the cooking appliance). I've been outside in 50 degree celcius heat, it's quite unpleasant. Only reached 40 today...

Page 24 of the air conditioning part of the service manual (attached) indicates that the clutch control is in the IPDM E/R (Intelligent Power Distribution Module Engine Room). This is located at the rear of the engine bay in the Navara (page 78 of PG.pdf, also attached).

Check the drive shafts. Slide under the car and give them a good shake, they should NOT move at all. If there's any movement, you've got a worn universal joint. It's quite common and not a serious problem. There is a possibility that it's the input to the diff itself, but that's rare.

Hi there from me. I'd tell you my name, but it's a secret.

Welcome to the forum. Is there a engine light on? Do you know anyone with a workshop code reader (usually a mechanic)? Does the car blow any smoke? One of the more common causes is the vacuum hoses that control the turbocharger. A full vacuum loss will also make your brakes harder to use.

Knowing the code that's bringing on the engine light might help a little (not always). If it's just one bank, how's the coil for those plugs? Is fuel getting to the injectors? Is there any signs of damage to the injector harness on that side? Running on 3/6 cylinders won't be good for the fuel...

Sure. Boost at idle should be zero (or even a slight vacuum). There's not enough exhaust flow to spin the turbine, and Nissan (Renault) knew this, so if your car won't start it's almost never the turbo. Boost when the load is high (and engine is doing 1600rpm or more) should be in the 20-24psi...

Also have a look around the exhaust for black sooty emissions (commonly the exhaust manifold-turbo connection and the EGR tube). At idle, the turbocharger will be told to keep the vanes closed and EGR valve will be closed, but most other times they'll both be open so the exhaust will flow...

Sorry about the delay in getting back to you, I've been on holidays. Won't be the only time I'm away, in about 3 weeks' time we're off to Bathurst for 2 weeks for the Superfest (Bathurst 12 Hr and Bathurst 500). It sounds like the replacement servo and its control is good, but the transfer case...