Recent content by Chapster

Mate I was in the same predicament in 2022 and took my Pathfinder to two mechanics on the Goldy and was given much the same advice. I was (reluctantly) quoted $4k - $6k to do the head but neither wanted the job, reason being they did not want to repair/replace it only to find the the block was...

If you are talking about a break where the bleeder outlet is, I used the workaround detailed here and it worked fine. One slight difference though is I installed a brass elbow I bought from (I think) Tradelink rather than have a long length of hose looping around and prone to a kink. Much tidier...

Thought I'd add a couple of comments here seeing as I attempted a dry change over the weekend. My auto is in a 2007 Pathfinder. It does have a dipstick but it was a right pain getting it out. Very confident the mechanic I paid to check over and replace all fluids (incl ATF) when I first...

For sure. I presume you've checked the BCS and confirmed there are 3 vac lines connected to it? If not, you've found your culpit. If yes, follow each of those and make sure they are all connected where they're meant to be. Assuming you are looking down from the passenger side of your engine...

What's the easiest way to identify which auto transmission one has? Am I correct to say the RE5R05A has 7 bolts down the long side of the pan while the RE7R01B has 8?

@Rhino1174 , @DaNav , @Colonel Any of you having any luck getting to the bottom of your fuel economy problems?

On mine the primer is on the intake to the filter, so the arrow points to the filter.

Mechanic mate of mine recommended it be done every time I change the oil filter

It was a while ago now but I reckon it was over 10 minutes. I recall checking in with a mechanic mate at the time just in case something had gone wrong and he confirmed it was pretty standard.

I bought this outboard one from Supercheap with the 8mm connectors plus a packet of suitable clamps. Swap the 90 degree connectors out of your old bulb for the straight through ones in your new bulb, tighten in place with new clamps, reinstall noting the correct direction and bobs your uncle...

I hear what you are saying. But if the vanes or bearing are restricted, how are you still able to to get 30psi plumbing the vac pump direct to actuator? Or is it the case you think your top end boost is fine but at low RPM it's taking ages to kick in? Here is a vid on replacing the actuator...

Mate I made a mistake, I took another look and the bleed from the BCS is to the air intake side (not the charged air pipe). My apologies. I have edited my post above. If it helps you at all I tried disconnecting this vac line and blocking it with my thumb and the actuator rod lifts and holds on...

So many thoughts. Firstly, I am not aware of any vacuum line t-piece on the air intake. My YD25 has a vac line from the pump on the d/s which goes IN to the solenoid, then the solenoid has two further vac lines OUT, one to the turbo actuator and one (the bleed) to the charged air pipe coming...

haha 1 question with 4 different, but all correct, answers. Choose your poison @Kim Henshaw!

It's a pain in the clacker from the top. Once the truck is jacked up or on ramps I lie behind the d/s front wheel and reach up from underneath and undo it with my left hand. I can also get my filter remover (cheap strap type) on it from underneath too if it needs a little help to get started...